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Post Info TOPIC: Instructions to build an interface to flash the 2002-2007 Busa ECU


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Instructions to build an interface to flash the 2002-2007 Busa ECU


Building a programming device to reflash the 2002-2007 busa ECU is extremely simple. The most complex component a TTL to RS232 converter can be bought ready built from several places. Just use Goolge with keywords RS232 TTL Converter and expect to pay for 20-50usd for a ready made device. Alternatively you can build a full device from a MAX232 chip and 5 capasitors with switches and all wiring for less than 20usd (here is a link to one schematic) For persons who are not daily dealing with electronics I recommend to buy a ready made TTL-RS232 converter. The rest is easy, just add some wiring, one pushbutton and two switches. Additionally you can use a led to indicate when the FWE signal is on - but that is not necessary.


The drawing below is quite self explanatory.

hayabusa_ecu_programmer.JPG


Here is also a link to a more detailed drawing in original size:
http://www.bikeland.info/petrik/FDT/hayabusa_ecu_programmer.JPG

To start you need to locate and connect the following signals on your ECU harness connector.
- pin 34, RCT = reset. Shortly grounding this signal with a pushbutton this
you reset the ecu to either to programming state or back to running state
depending on switches.
- pin 32, FWE = firmware enable. This should be normally connected to the
ground but when set to +5V it enables you to write to the ECU flash memory.
You can also use a led and resistor that normally grounds this signal and
then gets lighted up when you turn the FWE signal on.
- pin 14, md1 = programming mode 1 (boot mode). This sets the ecu to accept
a connection from an external programming device which first clears the ecu
flash memory and then installs a communication software kernel that then is
used to download the new ecu code into the flash memory. This signal should
not be connected to anywhere normally, but grounded when you want to
reprogram your ecu.
- 29 txd1, transmit signal. Should be connected to your rs-ttl converter
receive signal
- 30 rxd1, receive signal. Should be connected to your rs-ttl converter
receive signal (this could be also other way depending on how your
TTL-RS232 connectors are marked, rx to tx and tx to rx but we
will find out which way it should be later)

To start accessing these signals remove the blue wires from harness
connector pins 15,16,23,24 &25 and relocate those to pins 34,32,14,29 & 30.
This will remove the yoshbox connector from your bike, but with this ability
to reflash the ecu you dont need yoshbox connector anymore. You change the
position of a wire by pushing the white plastics on the connector so that it
goes about 1-2mm inwards. Then just pull one wire at a time and relocate it.
When done make sure that all the harness connector pins have the metal
visible at the connector side (even those which you have not relocated) to
make sure that a contact will be good. Then push the white plastic back on
even level which locks the connector pins in place.


Cut the blue relocated wires and solder an extension to those so that you
can connect these wires to your swiches and rs-ttl converter.(Alternatively
if someone could provide yoshbox connectors, it would be just moving the
blue wires to a different place on the harness connector - but as those are
not yet avail for this project we must cut corners here).


Additionally you need +5v which is pin 48 on the smaller harness connector
and Gnd which is pin 54 on the smaller harness connector. Cut some of the
plastics and solder an extension to those wires too as these are used for
powering your rsttl device and for fwe, md1 and rct signals. Protect the
soldered connections with plastics tape or with an heat shrinking insulation
material which you should be able to get radioshack or alike places (dont
know the enlish word for that, but they know at the store what I mean by
explaining the purpose). With shrinking material you can use a standard hair
dryer to shrink the diameter. But a plastics tape will do as well.

Below is a picture that helps you to locate the harness connector pins. The battery voltage pin +12V is also marked there, but dont let that to confuse you, that is not needed for this project.

You can start testing by connecting the pushbutton between harness connector RCT pin 34 and Gnd pin 54. By pressing this with ignition power on but bike not runnig for about 5-10 seconds you should see "Check" on your gauge cluster and the temperature gauge should go up. When releasing the button everything should go back to normal.

¨
Then you should connect the FWE and MD1 signals as adviced above. Turn the
swich(es) to programming mode and press RCT shortly. The same "Check" + high temperature should appear, but stay on even after RCT is released. When you turn the switches back to normal mode and press RCT shortly again the gauge should go back to normal.


At this point no programming is happening so its fairly safe to do the above
testing as long as you use only the +5V at pin 48 and Gnd at pin 54 and also
make sure that +5V never touches the Gnd or any other parts of the bike.
Before powering up the bike please double check your connections
particularly to see that +5V is ever only connected FWE wire and that +5V
is never grounded.


Obviously when doing the above mentioned test the bike battery must be well
charged and connected and the ignition turned on. Anyhow the bike should not be running.

As the last test you should first check if the RS232 device needs external
power or if it is powered up from USB or serial port. If external power is needed, connect your TTL-RS232 device +5v to power up your device, if external power is not needed then leave the +5V Vcc not connected to between ECU and TTL-RS232 converter. You can also test if your TTL-RS232 converter works by connecting the RX&TX pins together, connecting the device to your PC and starting the terminal program. When the pins are connected together at your converter end you should get everything you type echoed on your screen when everything works. For this test only connect the power, dont connect the TX& Rx pins to ECU yet.

Connect your gnd to the gnd at pin 54 and txd to txd and rxd to rxd. This
should not change anything (without it being connected to your PC). Again
check the +5V that its not touching Gnd anywhere. If during the test
anything starts to get hot on your rs-ttl board or you see Check on your
gauge cluster immediately remove the power and recheck your connections.
Peform the RCT and programming swithc test above and if everything is still
good then we are good to move to try the programming.
Obviously the all the
above is for you to do with your own risk.


This all is really simple when you start just doing it and locate the wires.
The biggest challenge is to consider that where do you plan to locate
your device and how long wires are you intending to use. The wiring can also
be something like 7 wire small flexible cable for up to 1-2 meters ...


harness conn

And also here you are a link to a more detailed drawing:
http://www.bikeland.info/petrik/FDT/ECU_harness_connector.JPG



-- Edited by PetriK at 09:20, 2008-01-06

-- Edited by PetriK at 04:54, 2008-01-15

-- Edited by RidgeRacer at 16:13, 2008-03-19

-- Edited by RidgeRacer at 14:43, 2008-03-25

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RE: Instructions to build an interface to flash the 2004-2007 Busa ECU



 Using Petrik's advice and info I have built the Rs232 converter. I got the parts from Digi-key electronics. The kit came in piece form and did not come with a board. Therefore, using a diagram call Max232ACPE I was able to assemble the board then power it with 3 AA alkalines to test it. Using Windows Hyperteminal set at COM1 serial I was able to get my typed letters repeated to me while the TX and RX connections were jumped together.

 Here is a picture of the board and the diagram



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  Here is a photo of the Yosh plug Petrik has spoken of as it sits untouched from the factory. It is found under the passenger seat at the rear of the bike.





Mark

Hopefully, I will do some more work and see if I can program my computer and return the results.

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Looks good progress...

Regarding yoshbox, a ready made connector from sumitomo could enable us to hook up with that so that it becomes a matter of just rewiring the harness connector instead of soldering. That would be an elegant engough way of doing thins for someone to start building these devices for us.

http://www.sws.co.jp/prd_e/carprd01/pdf/hws_e.pdf



-- Edited by PetriK at 02:31, 2008-01-07

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Built another interface today using the schematics mentioned above.

The startingpoint was an ready made USB-RS232-TTL converter that was priced for 28euro. Saved a lot of work by using something that was ready built. I am sure that any working RS232-TTL converter will do the job. Here you can see all the parts needed. There is no magic in USB-RS232-TTL converters. There is basically USB converter in the other end and 3 wires out on the other end. The wires that you use are Ground, Sending signal and Receiving signal.

Below you can see the parts needed. Like said earlier if you get a ready made sigal converter you really need one switch and one pushbutton and thats all. I also added a led to know when the device is in programming mode. The USB-RS232-TTL converter is here within clear plastic housing, but it may come in what ever format...

programming_interface_parts.JPG

In this picture you can see the ready made device without an box - very simple, just some wiring work to be done.

Programming_interface_ready_built.JPG


The most trickier part is to connect this to the ecu harness. You can either try to source pins that can be used directly or do the same as me - just utilize the yoshbox wires that you really do not need. Here you can see what the harness connector pins look like with some alternatives that works with some very carefull soldering.

harness_connector_structure.JPG

So its very easy to open the harness connector by pushing the white tab on the other side of the harness connector and relocate the Yoshbox wires to positions adviced earlier in this thread.

harness_connector_push_to_open.JPG

Relocating the wires happens just by replacing those into different locations. Here you can see the receive wire being pushed back into the harness connector.

harness_connector_use_yoshbox_wiress_for_programming_interface.JPG

And then finish the work by pushing the two white tabs back in to lock the harness wires in place.

harness_connector_open.JPG



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pins 15,16,23,24 &25 and relocate those to pins 34,32,13,29 & 30.
   shouldnt it be pin 14 and not pin13                                                                                                                                                                                            

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Yes - exactly. My mistake, now corrected. Many thanks for noticing.



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Hi all; new here. That USB-RS232-TTL converter looks just like my RC speed control programmer; Is it the same? If so, I saw these cheap!:  http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=2119

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Could be, which chipset is inside ? FTDI is preferred for software and baudrate support purposes...


speedracer138 wrote:


Hi all; new here. That USB-RS232-TTL converter looks just like my RC speed control programmer; Is it the same? If so, I saw these cheap!:  http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=2119







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I finally got my hands on a 32bit Busa ECU so I used the above info to build a 232 interface.  I decided to put the switches and converter all in a single box. I included a plug header on the ECU side so to give it more connection flexibility.

Also I added a three color LED that is green in normal mode and indicates 5V power present. It turns red when you put it in program mode, and the blue LED is connected to one side of the serial port so the light flashes purple during down loads.

busa006.jpg


busa007.jpg

BTW the board on the ribbon cable is an old Basic Stamp proto board I've had in the closet since three christmas ago. I used it to download the code and verify that I had erased and / or changed the code. Its made by the same company that makes the propeller board.

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Here are some pdfs that document what has been discussed so far. I took the idea of rearranging the pins on the ECU connector a little farther. While it doesn't matter which Yoshbox connector wires end up going to to which ECU programming pin I think it would be nice to have a standardized configuration called out beyond remove these five wires and stick them in these 5 holes.

ECU Plug Rewire PDF

Below is a schematic for the example I built above. It also includes cabling diagrams using the above standard. It shows using a yoshbox plug that mates with the wire harness or how to splice in a cable and connector.

232-ECU schematic

The yoshbox connector is of course the elegant way to go. You can get the shells from Kawasaki parts, its the pins that I haven't been able to easily find. I found the connectors to make these cables on ebay. They were pretty expensive, but they did come with a free wire harness at no extra charge ;)

busa012.jpg


busa009.jpg

I'm going to try a USB version next.






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RE: Instructions to build an interface to flash the 2002-2007 Busa ECU


The USB version is very easy... smile.gif

RR - do you get emails, have mailed couple of times but no reply...


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There was an error in the ECU plug rewire pdf listed above which I have corrected.

If you downloaded it prior to 3/28/08 you may want to redownload it.

-- Edited by RidgeRacer at 06:12, 2008-03-28

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Here is the interface I am currently using documented...

http://macmadigan.no-ip.com/Public/ECU/interface/interface.htm

For gaugedata only the interface looks like below:
gaugedata_wiring_diagram.jpg
gaugedata_wiring_diagram.jpg

-- Edited by PetriK at 23:15, 2008-04-13

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When connecting the usb to the ECU guage data wire do you disconnect the gauge cluster? In other words will it work with both the instrument cluster and the USB connected at the same time or just one at a time?

I'm trying to visualize how you could wire a combination programmer/logger  all through the existing Yosh plug. It would be easy to add an extra wire that would just T splice into the guage data wire. But it gets more complicated if you have to disconnect the gauges before being able to use the USB logging and then reconnect them when your done.



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Just T-split. You can even leave one of the programming wirest to be connected (sorry dont remember if its tx or rx).

The gauge cluster will go to error state and show check on the lcd and set temp gauge to red, but the ecueditor will read correct figures.

If the ecueditor notices that engine temp is getting too high it can (=will) still still set the red coolant temp lamp on to inform the user about this event.

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it also works with my 01 16bit ecu connected...biggrin

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busa2001 wrote:

it also works with my 01 16bit ecu connected...biggrin




Wow that is some very good news for many of us...

Any wiring mods needed ?



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PetriK wrote:

busa2001 wrote:

it also works with my 01 16bit ecu connected...biggrin




Wow that is some very good news for many of us...

Any wiring mods needed ?



NO! no wiring mod. needed..



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The interface schematics have been updated to correct Rx/Tx switch issue and also small mod to Gaugedata wiring to allow a permanent installation of the interface to the bike.

http://macmadigan.no-ip.com/Public/ECU/interface/interface.htm

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I have been asked of the interface, so lets share here also the answer I gave over email...

Building the interface hardware is fairly easy. You can order the programming interface cable from FTDICHIP.com and it arrives within a week. The wires that are relocated are so called yoshbox wires which you dont really need those at all - unless you at some point want to use the yoshbox or teka which to my experience with yoshbox are completely useless for tuning a modified engine where the VE is changed per RPM not only per Throttle positon.
So what you do is:
1) Order the cable from FTDICHIP.com
2) Remove the yoshbox wires out of the ecu connector for you to build the interface. You do that by pressing the white larger plastic on the other side of the harness for about 1mm deep into the black plastic. Then you just can pull the yoshbox wires out. Cut the wires from around from 2-4cm (1-2") from the connector. You can leave the other ends there uncovered as there is nothing at the other end (exept the yoshbox connector you dont need anymore). Then push the white plastic back from the other side where you have 2 white tabs. If you can not push it in check that all the wires are properly in. Its possible that some of the wires have moved out from the harness connector and therefore it does not close properly
3) Buy one 4 selector 3 position switch from a local electronics store (ON-OFF-ON switch with 3x4 soldering points, any type of switch will do)
4) Solder the wires as mentioned in the instructions into the switch, the wires need to be extended a bit (to about 20-30cm long so that you can relocate the switch e.g. under the back seat/hump. Dont extend more as ignition may generate "noise" into the electronics if you move the switch to the front panel.)
5) Replace the wires into the ecu connector to their respective new places. Opening the connector and closing it as in point 2.
6) Relocate your switch to a position where you can easily access it when the USB cable is connected to the ecu.
Now you can by turning the switch select three positions:
ON - gauge data only interface for tracing and monitoring
OFF - normally running bike with gauge cluster working
ON - programming state
You know that the switch is in ON programming state from the fact that when you turn the engine power on that the fuel pump does not start. If the fuel pump starts but gauge says check then you are in gauge data position but laptop is not connected. If you have a laptop connected then the gauge works when the switch is in gaugedata position until you turn the program on. In that case when the gaugecluster says CHECK you reset the ecu and your engine datastream goes active. For resetting the ecu if you dont build a reset button you can just use the normal bikes kill switch which you turn off and then back on. That resets the ecu. I dont have a separate reset button in my engine as I rather ensure that the engine is stopped by turning it off.

The yoshbox wires that you can use for building the interface are: 15,16,23,24,25.



http://www.bikeland.info/petrik/FDT/ECU_harness_connector.JPG

http://macmadigan.no-ip.com/Public/ECU/interface/interface.htm


-- Edited by PetriK at 10:32, 2008-05-11

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Looks like the TTL convertor can be purchased at a reasonable price stateside from Digikey: http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail?name=768-1017-ND


John

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Here is something that the locals are building, the colour coding is exactly the same for the fdti converter. This can not be left on the bike for the full time as temp gauge will show red, therefore they are using like the connector on the 2nd picture.

ecu_flash_kytkis.jpg
06082008043_G.sized.jpg

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And belo the above in real world use.

10082008050_G.sized.jpg

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sportbikeryder wrote:

Looks like the TTL convertor can be purchased at a reasonable price stateside from Digikey: http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail?name=768-1017-ND


John




Close, but not the one you want. I already made that mistake

busa032.jpg

The ones with the 6 foot cable are a different part number and list for $20.

I know Mouser has the right one here

 



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BTW you can buy an already built and tested one from www.bikeland.info

miva_usb2ecu.jpg

miva_idk.jpg

With these two items you can plug into the existing wire harness connector (after you rewire the ECU plugs) It does not however have the Tech line, a feature I need to add to it.

Anyway after that shameless promotion here is the schematic if you want to build one yourself.

USB-ECU_Interface_Hayabusa.pdf



-- Edited by RidgeRacer at 23:30, 2008-08-10

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Anyone know what the input voltage limits are for the 32 bit ECU's? I saw where the 16 bit required flaching voltage of 11.6-12.4 full load volts.

Since the 32-bit doesn't require external programming voltage, what is the input range? 11-15V or so?

John

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Have not recently made exact measurements.

Talking about the battery voltage (ie external psu) it seems to work around 10-16V. I vaguely recall that around 8-9V its starting to shut down. When running in the testbench it takes around 500mA with my coils connected. Without testbench, a psu with 200mA output should be ok.

For programming lines, those are TTL level signals (0-5V), vaguely recall having heard that the swicthing point is somewhere around 1.7v.


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Good info as always Petrik. I have 2 power supplies, one that is putting out 15.6 at load, one at 11.3 at load. I will try it with the 11.2 first, I am a little shy to try the higher voltage first.

I hope to get the software downloaded on another computer and try a "first flash" this week.



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I am running the desktop test setup at around 11.6V. The internal voltage for ecu is 5V so the supply voltage really affects only things like injectors and ignition coil voltage when running.

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Finally got around writing instructions on how to build busa ecu reflashing and engine data monitoring cables. I hope that in the coming cable versions offered by www.bikeland.info also includes the engine data monitoring. Anyhow even that is not currently possible I put a remark on these instructions to contact www.bikeland.info for ready made cables.


Here are the instructions:

http://busaecu.redirectme.net/interface







-- Edited by PetriK at 15:21, 2008-10-13

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PetriK wrote:

Finally got around writing instructions on how to build busa ecu reflashing and engine data monitoring cables. I hope that in the coming cable versions offered by www.bikeland.info also includes the engine data monitoring. Anyhow even that is not currently possible I put a remark on these instructions to contact www.bikeland.info for ready made cables.


Here are the instructions:

http://busaecu.redirectme.net/interface







-- Edited by PetriK at 15:21, 2008-10-13




 Thanks PetriK, you directions are very easy to follow, here is what i built up last night.




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I am VERY glad to see those also including the engine data monitoring feature ! For the advanced tuning era we really need the engine data monitioring amonst several other things...



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Put together one for the bench :)

Dumb question, do I have to use pin 35 as the main ground? Tried 18, and I think 26 without any luck, was hoping for complete plug and play with 1 connector LOL







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Use 18,26,27 for ground and it wires up.

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Looks like you have been busy.

Now I'm going to have to go and update my design ;)



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Hi guys, Sorry if this is a stupid question.Can anyone tell me if this is a suitable TTL converter for this application?



-- Edited by horndog at 13:53, 2008-11-08

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Max232 will not work on engine data monitoring.

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It will work for the serial programming input. The first flash box I built was a 232 version using a MAX232.

Just remember ECU serial xmt (pin 29) goes to 232 rcv and ECU serial rcv (30) connects to 232 xmt.

You can get 5V and ground to power the board off the yosh plug

232 schematic pdf

 

-- Edited by RidgeRacer at 17:13, 2008-11-08

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RidgeRacer wrote:

Looks like you have been busy.

Now I'm going to have to go and update my design ;)



The response so far seems pretty good.  I am really excited about all this :)



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Trying to find a cheaper alternative for the TTL converter, something that will support engine data monitoring. Would either of the following work?

http://www.virtualvillage.com/Items/006401-041?&caSKU=006401-041&caTitle=PC%20USB%20to%20RS232%20RS485%20UART%20TTL%20Signal%20Converter

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/USB-to-RS232-Module-Based-TTL-PC-FTDI-FT232BM-BL-chip_W0QQitemZ400018707143QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Networking?hash=item400018707143&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A2|65%3A1|39%3A1|240%3A1318


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In Australia try here for the cable http://www.dontronics-shop.com/ftdi-usb-to-serial-ttl-level-5v-converter-cable.html , I brought one from the UK ..... expensive thing to do...
Thanks to Shane from QLD for the link.

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Maj750 wrote:

In Australia try here for the cable http://www.dontronics-shop.com/ftdi-usb-to-serial-ttl-level-5v-converter-cable.html , I brought one from the UK ..... expensive thing to do...
Thanks to Shane from QLD for the link.



Thanks mate, that's what I was looking for.

 




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the cable from mouser is about the same money as the links you provided, $20 ish plus shipping

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Greg it would be if our $ wasn't so crappy. :(
Actually Ross the switch is difficult to source here, for the complications sourcing everything its probably easier to get one of Gregs flashers

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I couldn't find a damn 4-pole switch either, so I got a pair of dpdt ones and joined the toggles together with a bar.

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Geri_Pete wrote:

I couldn't find a damn 4-pole switch either, so I got a pair of dpdt ones and joined the toggles together with a bar.



+1 on that, in Aus you are wasting your time trying to find a 4pole switch with centre off. I did 2 dpdt as well. My whole set up cost me about $80 AUD in the end.




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I have a ton of the switches, but i assume shipping them over to you guys unless a bunch of them wouldn't make it worth it.



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I will send you an email Greg.

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