The drawing below is quite self explanatory.
Here is also a link to a more detailed drawing in original size:http://www.bikeland.info/petrik/FDT/hayabusa_ecu_programmer.JPGTo start you need to locate and connect the following signals on your ECU harness connector.- pin 34, RCT = reset. Shortly grounding this signal with a pushbutton this you reset the ecu to either to programming state or back to running state depending on switches.- pin 32, FWE = firmware enable. This should be normally connected to the ground but when set to +5V it enables you to write to the ECU flash memory.You can also use a led and resistor that normally grounds this signal andthen gets lighted up when you turn the FWE signal on.- pin 14, md1 = programming mode 1 (boot mode). This sets the ecu to accept a connection from an external programming device which first clears the ecu flash memory and then installs a communication software kernel that then is used to download the new ecu code into the flash memory. This signal should not be connected to anywhere normally, but grounded when you want to reprogram your ecu.- 29 txd1, transmit signal. Should be connected to your rs-ttl converter receive signal- 30 rxd1, receive signal. Should be connected to your rs-ttl converter receive signal (this could be also other way depending on how yourTTL-RS232 connectors are marked, rx to tx and tx to rx but we will find out which way it should be later)
To start accessing these signals remove the blue wires from harness connector pins 15,16,23,24 &25 and relocate those to pins 34,32,14,29 & 30. This will remove the yoshbox connector from your bike, but with this ability to reflash the ecu you dont need yoshbox connector anymore. You change the position of a wire by pushing the white plastics on the connector so that it goes about 1-2mm inwards. Then just pull one wire at a time and relocate it. When done make sure that all the harness connector pins have the metal visible at the connector side (even those which you have not relocated) to make sure that a contact will be good. Then push the white plastic back on even level which locks the connector pins in place.
Cut the blue relocated wires and solder an extension to those so that you can connect these wires to your swiches and rs-ttl converter.(Alternatively if someone could provide yoshbox connectors, it would be just moving the blue wires to a different place on the harness connector - but as those are not yet avail for this project we must cut corners here).
Additionally you need +5v which is pin 48 on the smaller harness connector and Gnd which is pin 54 on the smaller harness connector. Cut some of the plastics and solder an extension to those wires too as these are used for powering your rsttl device and for fwe, md1 and rct signals. Protect the soldered connections with plastics tape or with an heat shrinking insulation material which you should be able to get radioshack or alike places (dont know the enlish word for that, but they know at the store what I mean by explaining the purpose). With shrinking material you can use a standard hair dryer to shrink the diameter. But a plastics tape will do as well.
Below is a picture that helps you to locate the harness connector pins. The battery voltage pin +12V is also marked there, but dont let that to confuse you, that is not needed for this project.
You can start testing by connecting the pushbutton between harness connector RCT pin 34 and Gnd pin 54. By pressing this with ignition power on but bike not runnig for about 5-10 seconds you should see "Check" on your gauge cluster and the temperature gauge should go up. When releasing the button everything should go back to normal.
¨Then you should connect the FWE and MD1 signals as adviced above. Turn the swich(es) to programming mode and press RCT shortly. The same "Check" + high temperature should appear, but stay on even after RCT is released. When you turn the switches back to normal mode and press RCT shortly again the gauge should go back to normal.
At this point no programming is happening so its fairly safe to do the above testing as long as you use only the +5V at pin 48 and Gnd at pin 54 and also make sure that +5V never touches the Gnd or any other parts of the bike. Before powering up the bike please double check your connections particularly to see that +5V is ever only connected FWE wire and that +5V is never grounded.
Obviously when doing the above mentioned test the bike battery must be well charged and connected and the ignition turned on. Anyhow the bike should not be running.
As the last test you should first check if the RS232 device needs externalpower or if it is powered up from USB or serial port. If external power is needed, connect your TTL-RS232 device +5v to power up your device, if external power is not needed then leave the +5V Vcc not connected to between ECU and TTL-RS232 converter. You can also test if your TTL-RS232 converter works by connecting the RX&TX pins together, connecting the device to your PC and starting the terminal program. When the pins are connected together at your converter end you should get everything you type echoed on your screen when everything works. For this test only connect the power, dont connect the TX& Rx pins to ECU yet.Connect your gnd to the gnd at pin 54 and txd to txd and rxd to rxd. This should not change anything (without it being connected to your PC). Again check the +5V that its not touching Gnd anywhere. If during the test anything starts to get hot on your rs-ttl board or you see Check on your gauge cluster immediately remove the power and recheck your connections. Peform the RCT and programming swithc test above and if everything is still good then we are good to move to try the programming. Obviously the all the above is for you to do with your own risk.
This all is really simple when you start just doing it and locate the wires. The biggest challenge is to consider that where do you plan to locate your device and how long wires are you intending to use. The wiring can also be something like 7 wire small flexible cable for up to 1-2 meters ...
And also here you are a link to a more detailed drawing:http://www.bikeland.info/petrik/FDT/ECU_harness_connector.JPG
When asking a question, you can also consider posting it to facebook:http://www.facebook.com/ecueditorcom
Built another interface today using the schematics mentioned above.The startingpoint was an ready made USB-RS232-TTL converter that was priced for 28euro. Saved a lot of work by using something that was ready built. I am sure that any working RS232-TTL converter will do the job. Here you can see all the parts needed. There is no magic in USB-RS232-TTL converters. There is basically USB converter in the other end and 3 wires out on the other end. The wires that you use are Ground, Sending signal and Receiving signal.Below you can see the parts needed. Like said earlier if you get a ready made sigal converter you really need one switch and one pushbutton and thats all. I also added a led to know when the device is in programming mode. The USB-RS232-TTL converter is here within clear plastic housing, but it may come in what ever format...In this picture you can see the ready made device without an box - very simple, just some wiring work to be done. The most trickier part is to connect this to the ecu harness. You can either try to source pins that can be used directly or do the same as me - just utilize the yoshbox wires that you really do not need. Here you can see what the harness connector pins look like with some alternatives that works with some very carefull soldering.So its very easy to open the harness connector by pushing the white tab on the other side of the harness connector and relocate the Yoshbox wires to positions adviced earlier in this thread.Relocating the wires happens just by replacing those into different locations. Here you can see the receive wire being pushed back into the harness connector.And then finish the work by pushing the two white tabs back in to lock the harness wires in place.
Yes - exactly. My mistake, now corrected. Many thanks for noticing.
Could be, which chipset is inside ? FTDI is preferred for software and baudrate support purposes...speedracer138 wrote: Hi all; new here. That USB-RS232-TTL converter looks just like my RC speed control programmer; Is it the same? If so, I saw these cheap!: http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=2119
Hi all; new here. That USB-RS232-TTL converter looks just like my RC speed control programmer; Is it the same? If so, I saw these cheap!: http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=2119
busa2001 wrote: it also works with my 01 16bit ecu connected...
it also works with my 01 16bit ecu connected...
Wow that is some very good news for many of us... Any wiring mods needed ?
PetriK wrote: busa2001 wrote: it also works with my 01 16bit ecu connected...Wow that is some very good news for many of us... Any wiring mods needed ?
sportbikeryder wrote:Looks like the TTL convertor can be purchased at a reasonable price stateside from Digikey: http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail?name=768-1017-NDJohn
Looks like the TTL convertor can be purchased at a reasonable price stateside from Digikey: http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail?name=768-1017-NDJohn
PetriK wrote:Finally got around writing instructions on how to build busa ecu reflashing and engine data monitoring cables. I hope that in the coming cable versions offered by www.bikeland.info also includes the engine data monitoring. Anyhow even that is not currently possible I put a remark on these instructions to contact www.bikeland.info for ready made cables.Here are the instructions: http://busaecu.redirectme.net/interface-- Edited by PetriK at 15:21, 2008-10-13
Finally got around writing instructions on how to build busa ecu reflashing and engine data monitoring cables. I hope that in the coming cable versions offered by www.bikeland.info also includes the engine data monitoring. Anyhow even that is not currently possible I put a remark on these instructions to contact www.bikeland.info for ready made cables.Here are the instructions: http://busaecu.redirectme.net/interface-- Edited by PetriK at 15:21, 2008-10-13
Thanks PetriK, you directions are very easy to follow, here is what i built up last night.
RidgeRacer wrote: Looks like you have been busy. Now I'm going to have to go and update my design ;)
Looks like you have been busy. Now I'm going to have to go and update my design ;)
Maj750 wrote:In Australia try here for the cable http://www.dontronics-shop.com/ftdi-usb-to-serial-ttl-level-5v-converter-cable.html , I brought one from the UK ..... expensive thing to do... Thanks to Shane from QLD for the link.
In Australia try here for the cable http://www.dontronics-shop.com/ftdi-usb-to-serial-ttl-level-5v-converter-cable.html , I brought one from the UK ..... expensive thing to do... Thanks to Shane from QLD for the link.
Geri_Pete wrote: I couldn't find a damn 4-pole switch either, so I got a pair of dpdt ones and joined the toggles together with a bar.
I couldn't find a damn 4-pole switch either, so I got a pair of dpdt ones and joined the toggles together with a bar.