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Post Info TOPIC: Instructions to build an interface to flash the 2002-2007 Busa ECU


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RE: Instructions to build an interface to flash the 2002-2007 Busa ECU


Yeah I've noticed that switch is impossible to get around here. Horndog or Geri, could you post a pic of how you did the 2 dpdt alternative?

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hey PetriK new to this forum ,
Iam working on the sh7058 and was wondering if the interface for the busa may work for me.

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It has the same SCI boot mode flash programming interface so it should. You just have to figure out the correct pins to use.  What vehicle is it out of?

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Honda civic , some of the subarus DBW have the sama  processor

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Not sure 100% why but I built my own communication box and everything works fine other than I don't have to do any type of reset during the flashing. Was woundering if anyone else has found that re-set was not needed during the flashing operation or is it some fluke just to what I have done hahahaha

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i always have to cycle the power to the ecu

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For some reason the way I have it wired everythings works perfectly no issues of any kind. It is a plus tho to beable to hit flash and walk away till its done with out re setting. Was not someting I tried to make do just does it.

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well what i do is cycle power, then hit flash, then walk away LOL

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ross79 wrote:

Yeah I've noticed that switch is impossible to get around here. Horndog or Geri, could you post a pic of how you did the 2 dpdt alternative?



No mystery to it, its just two 2 pole switches mounted side by side instead of one 4 pole.

 ScreenShot049.jpg



-- Edited by horndog on Sunday 22nd of March 2009 12:14:21 PM

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hi RR, what specifically makes the digikey unit unsuitable? it has an FTDI chip and supports 5v TTL logic so on the surface it looks OK to me ... what do you see that I don't? Cheers, Mark.

RidgeRacer wrote:

 

sportbikeryder wrote:

Looks like the TTL convertor can be purchased at a reasonable price stateside from Digikey: http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail?name=768-1017-ND


John




Close, but not the one you want. I already made that mistake

busa032.jpg

The ones with the 6 foot cable are a different part number and list for $20.

I know Mouser has the right one here

 

 




 



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bozo,

I'm looking at the chip on the picture and it looks like it says FT232RL.  The URL to the Digi-Key version says it is the TTL-232R-5V-PCB, but the Datasheet link points to the FTDI FT232RL chip (which is the 3.3V TTL version). 

From what I've gathered in the posts above, you want the 5V TTL version (for example the FT232RQ chip).  Also the Digi-Key version you will have to solder whereas if you get the cabled kind it is terminated by a 6-way 0.1" pitch header socket.

Here is a page with all the versions of the TTL-232R @ FTDI Chip

I found some places that have the 5V TTL cabled versions:
MakerShed, out of stock at this time
Mouser, out of stock at this time
RobotShop says they have them in stock.

I am looking at buying one of these cables to get diagnostic data from my bike.


-- Edited by grendel on Friday 2nd of July 2010 03:43:56 AM

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Hi there! I have started building a unit using a USB-TTL cable, and have been following RR's details.
However, i am a bit confused.. smile.gif Does the rewiring pinout difference between Petrik's and RR's details seem important?
I mean, Petrik mentions pins 15,16,23,24 &25 and relocate those to pins 34,32,14,29 & 30 while RR's mentions
16,15,25,24,23 relocated to 14,29,30,32,43.
Are these pin numbers generally speaking some unused lines, that one could utilize as they wanted to?
Or is it important to follow one of the two instructions?
I've actually rewired the bike according to RR's list, and dunno if a European (Greece) bike has any color code differences.
However, the ones i relocated matched the color map RR mentioned.
Here's a few pics:
http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm242/salax54/HAYAPROG1.jpg

http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm242/salax54/HAYAPROG2.jpg

http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm242/salax54/HAYAPROG3.jpg

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xalaris wrote:

Hi there! I have started building a unit using a USB-TTL cable, and have been following RR's details.
However, i am a bit confused.. smile.gif Does the rewiring pinout difference between Petrik's and RR's details seem important?
I mean, Petrik mentions pins 15,16,23,24 &25 and relocate those to pins 34,32,14,29 & 30 while RR's mentions
16,15,25,24,23 relocated to 14,29,30,32,43.
Are these pin numbers generally speaking some unused lines, that one could utilize as they wanted to?
Or is it important to follow one of the two instructions?
I've actually rewired the bike according to RR's list, and dunno if a European (Greece) bike has any color code differences.
However, the ones i relocated matched the color map RR mentioned.
Here's a few pics:
http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm242/salax54/HAYAPROG1.jpg

http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm242/salax54/HAYAPROG2.jpg

http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm242/salax54/HAYAPROG3.jpg



Which way you wire doesn't really matter as long as the correct wires from the USB cable end up at the correct ECU pins.

I would guess there are probably more bikes wired Petrik's way which kind of makes it more standardized by definition.

 



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RidgeRacer wrote:
Which way you wire doesn't really matter as long as the correct wires from the USB cable end up at the correct ECU pins.


I would guess there are probably more bikes wired Petrik's way which kind of makes it more standardized by definition.

 




Thanks for the response RR! Ok, i've completed the construction, plugged it in, but when trying to connect i have some problems. Error: Power is not on, ECU is in programming mode or COM port is not set correctly. Modemstat=6000, Comporterr=0.
I connect the cable to the Yoshi socket, run the ecu editor, turn on the bike, have it run in neutral, but nada..
Green LED is on at the programmer box. Running on XP, with drivers from FDTI. Any chance driver version is an issue?
Thanks a whole lot!


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Can't seem to communicate with the ECU.. The schematics i used are these: http://www.bikeland.info/pdf/ecu/USB-ECU_Interface_Hayabusa.pdf
The only change i had to do was the LEDs part. Couldn't find a tricolor LED, so i used 3 different leds for each color. So i made the connections like i would for a tricolor led, only utilizing 3 individual ones. I still feel a bit confused with the whole driver/software installation. The cable is the TTL-232R-5V from FTDI. It appears as USB Serial Converter under Device Manager in XP SP3, and just for testing, same shows under a Vista laptop. No TTL232R name there, which i suppose is normal (?) I select COM2 for the port, but have also been given other numbers under Vista.
Are there any additional settings i should take note of, such as baud rates and such?
Green led lights when plugged to the bike, red led lights if i flip the switch to flash mode, and while moving around various windows, the blue led flashes.

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Ok, an update..

I got the pcb, and started on building it.

partly assembled

However, i have a few questions (again) smile.gif

I couldn't find the on/off/on switch, and got me an on/on switch with the same amount of contacts, and same physical size as the required one:

switch a

switch b

Haven't soldered it yet, because i'd like to have some oppinions, as to wether it would be ok to use, or do i really need an "off" position?

switch c

And another question: i was thinking of installing a LED, and thought of following Petrik's schematic ( http://www.bikeland.info/petrik/FDT/hayabusa_ecu_programmer.JPG)

Just so i don't do anything wrong, i wanted to make sure i understand this right; i'll be using a LED with a 220 Ohm resistor between Vcc and Gnd (right after the FWE switch) on the TTL side. Can anyone correct me if i got it all wrong?

Thanks!



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Edit: Posted incorrect info previously



-- Edited by sportbikeryder on Wednesday 6th of April 2011 02:58:38 AM

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It's been a while, and i hesitate to go any further without confirmation from other users. I really am new to all this, so i would appreciate someone telling me if the "ON-ON" switch is adequate, and whereabouts could i actually place a led. Maybe this is uber-noob questions, but in case the switch is ok, which position is normal and which is the programming mode? I suppose there is no risk for damage to the ecu in any way? (if i don't send data of course)
Thanks once again..

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Hi all! I'm from Hungary, and I have a K4 Hayabusa and I'd like build an interface between the Busa's ECU and my computer. I read this topic and I'm a little mixed up. Which interface need I? the new 1.0 or 1.2 PCB or enough the older version from here:

http://macmadigan.no-ip.com/Public/ECU/interface/interface_files/frame.htm.

Please help in the decision!

 

thanks Petrik for help on Facebook!! 



-- Edited by negru on Sunday 17th of April 2011 10:39:54 AM

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Hayabusa K4 with some mods.: Motty AFR Tuner, Wiseco 13:1 pistons, ported cyl. head, Bodis custom exhaust system, PVM wheels, GSXR1000 K6 fork, mDesign tail 



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Hi Guys,

I have a turbo Hayabusa, Gen 1, compression 8,5:1, (spacer 2 mm).
Where can I find the ignition map that such an application (boost around 14-16 PSI)?
If no one has a ignition map, how many degrees should move the ignition (approximately)
I've had problems with detonation, so now I have a fear smile.gif
Thank you very much


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I'm not really sure this is the right thread or forum for that question.

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Are you guys using the new "PetriK" designed boards for the interface? If so, those are for GEN2 flashing. In order to do GEN1 flashing, all that is needed is the FTDI USB interface cable and a switch if you want to datastream as well.

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PetriK wrote:

Here is something that the locals are building, the colour coding is exactly the same for the fdti converter. This can not be left on the bike for the full time as temp gauge will show red, therefore they are using like the connector on the 2nd picture.

ecu_flash_kytkis.jpg
06082008043_G.sized.jpg


 After programming the ECU, the water temperature gauge remains on the red forever ... is there a way to fix?



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