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Post Info TOPIC: Hack Sea Dent


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Hack Sea Dent


Found your site on a drag bike site. I read your stuff over at the fish pond. Good thing you made the move, RR. Way too technical to be lost in a large chat forum is bury your work.

I am green when it comes to the ECU. I'm learning the hard way by cut and try. I need an EE degree to come up with a fuel cutter angle.

To me, they are a waste. But if you want to piggy, be my guest.  I think you should build your own piggy, RR. JMO.

See, most fuel cutters chase the injector to a set fuel ratio. I just don't know if that is the way to go. Isn't there another way?


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RR, I have been reading your philosophy about shutting down the tech end of your studies. I see that trickle down tech is now being exploited for money. I see you were so open source and now see how your tuning tips have an ability to create the next ohm's variable into the ECU.

I am open source and show how to chase backup maps and unlock the limiter with a wire removed is Ohm's Law is that simple in the hack, correct?

I want to know once you get that engine all tuned up is gonna beat whom with it? See, I want that competitors bike at peak performance. No matter how well tuned that bike was, did you beat the other guy? You lost showing up if you compete with, "Mike The Bike" who comes out of retirement is beat the old guy?

Guess that flash was a flash in the pan for nothing. Do you agree?

That is why there is only one real time action is backup it up with some genitalia. Do you agree? Could I not make the same mechanical trim with the advancer and a wire removed? I am one person like you, RR. Your goal was to "help jet a computer bike" for racing.

I do not agree guys that race should be shut out of the tech. I sure am not holding back as to how to set a computer bike up as in how limited you are without [your] an EE background or basic fundamentals of electricity.


Have I read there is a spark machine that returns that out of range signal back to the ECU? So the spark box with that machine calc is sending a flashed ECU that retrieves the ignition map is the wafer took the load is look up the fuel/ign and now you have your machined fuel re-trimmed is you went nowhere is the same >> math term, "1 amt" << plot is the math reverts back to the [1 Atmosphere] is the math, correct?

It has to stay in that aspect of the stoic, does it not? Does the math [0 - 5v] point out that 1 pound of gas = 17,500 BTU? There is your mathed number times the burn rate, times 10° ATDC. Which means that the fuel better be spent @10 after, because the next degree is the power stroke, correct?

So, if I am an old advancer in a bike with points, the question is; "Am I not in a linear move up the rpm band at full lock advanced in the stoic?" I am I not in the same proportion as a jet in a carb? Does not the map follow the stoic all the way up in the math is your sensors re-plot all that was to re-follow the stoic up the linear times rpm, correct?

Did flash remain in the stoic? Did my hacking the wafer retreive the '1 amt" as in plot my stoic in real time?

Any of that make sense as far as tuning and fuel trimming the computer bike? I have a lot of questions that only have one answer. Just like it runs in 1's and 0's are the steps in the absolute plot of the 1Atmo. Correct?

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Maybe.

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ott-ohooo,sevin is that you?.......confuse

-- Edited by stocker on Tuesday 17th of March 2009 06:18:58 PM

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You are correct, Stocker.

Thank you, RR. "Maybe" to me means, I am following a path that has to walk that practical. You did not say, "No" and with that, there is not a thing I can do to stop those who already took advantage of your work, RR and are benefiting by your discoverie$.

Seat of the pants, I can tell the backup is going to hurt your top end speed. It runs too fat if not trying to figure out if they spray more fuel to slow you down. At least the dyno charts show the A/F ratios to aim toward the fatter 11:1/12:1 type map(s). Limiter maps in fuel purge, and if that calls for less or more ignition, it sure is going to cause a heat problem to the engine. So, if the water jackets and the heat dissipation of the aluminum and all that is fuel trim and ignition trim caught up with 14.7, then yes, I would agree you could back the timing down plot wise with fuel as you cannot "breakout" of that 1 atm window being all things being relative to the rise in rpm.

With 400 plus maps, how are you going to change those to customize what the factory already has are the "machines" to math the 1 atm. That is your battle. And that machine is your trump card. Now, can you change the program of that spark box and that safety cutting machine?

I know the practical does not follow what I am about to say, but for me to understand the 'Breakout Box" planted all over the place, you have that advance window that is going to play with you. Do I waste my time/money on that mechanical advancer, knowing that spark box has the, "breakout cutter" ready and waiting?

That is why you see the dyno show the difference when you install that exta 4° of wheel tone is toned right past the full advance is now in the breakout box with some heavy retard will stay there until that rpm is back in the window of 360° not 364° = Meet the internal fail-safe machine reporting back to the ECU, is, "Huston we have a problem." Next event is the ECU machines the retard cutting so it backs out of the cut window are they dyno dumps. Yes, your window of that cut is you did speed up some event but did you hit the, 'breakout box' in the second spark unit?

So, yes, you are at war with that breakout box in the generic. I mean this is generic cars as it also applies to the same math plot, or windows/C/C++ platform for the software writing; because if it is not within that "reader range" of the 'cut machine,' well guess who just met and was waiting for that mechanical advancer on the circuit board. So, there are backups to keep things within range even in the ECU/Spark Unit bricks.

I would be on the ragged edge of that cut box with the mechanical advancer. Is that a "Maybe," RR?
When I write, I am after that one person that wants to haul ass. I am sure they want to win races and not be some also ran. But no matter how well that bike is going to be tuned, a decent rider will whip you bad. That motocross dad who built the stadium tracks all those years had some good quotes of riders I am trying to remember. On was if the guy is a great rider on a top flight bike = You Lose. If a top flight rider is on your bike = You lose.

See the pattern? It's more a head game and balls out riding faster than the other guy. It's all that mental practice. So, my idea is to open source that guy/gal's bike is make it haul like no other. Now, you got the bike is where is the mental meat to greet the podium? You sure cannot blame the bike, can you.

That is why I fear no person knowing my tune. I have yet to be beaten by any of those hot 1000's in the canyons. I am an old fart and what gives is they had the bike to beat me in the corners. Drivers shut down and pull over [to let me pass they have no head game for the hot lines] are the cars ahead of me. The bikes sign off, turn around looking for easier pray in the canyons are the riders.

Ask me if I need to flash, RR. So, I will remain open source for whatever ECU work I can try to keep one guy from frying his brick. Not that what you are doing will fry the ECU with what you have figured out so far. Frying is R&D so the flash is stable now on the bench work.


And once again, RR, I am going to ask you this:

1.Are we busting crystal to find the [shortest] faster path is all we are doing is called, "Flash?" Yes - No - Maybe?

2. Are we in need of a 62 cent part to re-flash or return the ECU back to stock? Yes - No - Maybe?

3. Are we hitting the, "Breakout Box" inside the secondary brick called the spark box? This is where you think you are going to advance so much and she says no is your calc went out of bounds on the 10ths of volts. This caused the trigger to be pulled on 4° in so many steps. Yes - No - Maybe? You better be sure on this question. I do not have to tell you each step walks in the absolute. There are no maybes when you build your customer's "contracted 4 components to wire up" that circuit board to work like a light bulb it walks it talks. It is call a Wheatstone bridge; it walks out the wire in 1's and 0's and that is that 4th variable to make it all work the tune from 10 in to 10 out is 10th my volt between 0 and 5v.

Thanks RR, for answering these 3 practical events.


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P0011­ A Camshaft Pos Timing - Over-Advanced bank1)
P0012­ A Camshaft Pos Timing - Over-Retarded (bank1)

In the generic, this one of many pages of your basic SAE codes to the spark box or that little machine that over/under the ignition maps in the igniter. This is taken from a Ford FSM.

I will use a few abstracts to explain where the ignition is trumped by the machining of the over/under adv/ret event.

ECU - Executes final fuel/ign
IGF - Ignition Fire
IGNITER = Spark Box
IGT - Ignition Time Out
Coil - Fire

Spark Flow Begins:

ECU - IGF - IGNITER - Coil = Fire.

Timing Over/Under Ride Moves this way:

ECU - IGF (your 4° adjustable tone wheel) - IGNITER - IGT - ECU - Sets the ignition to the generic which you do not see as sophisticated as the car industry with more interior telemetry and air conditioning maps. I mean, keep adding items under the hood too), but basically, she is dropping the nose in the spark box reporting back to the ECU. It's not your advance/retard maps. It's the spark box seeing that 4 extra degrees.

Are you stuck within that advance window via, you do not have control of P 11 and 12 in the remote box called the spark unit/igniter. That is why I see you force the 4° thru the spark unit, machines to the max is the ECU keeps bringing up retard maps to keep you within spec. You are out of the window of either adv/ret mode. For it's own safety sorta speak, there is this machine that works to stop that map you plotted in the generic. I guess it corrects your map?

So, yes you flashed in the ECU. But where is the machine mod in the spark unit or the igniter?

Are you not stuck at that safe window is within spec of the spark unit? She trumped your advance sorta speak. Yes, you did reach that peak window is out of bounds.

Make sense in the generic SAE computer communication of advance windows?





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Sevin, like the style you write... so lets put some more into this...

The SAE code triggers are controllable with what RR is doing, but to me that is only a gen2 issue. Its a bigger problem for piggy back computers that will lit the light for the driver - something that ive heard that a black tape can fix - but dont believe riding that road so thats why i am here, though some would say not all there doing the stuff we do on the track.

Seat to the pants tells the diff if this is the right way. Last season one and same shop claimed national psb and fastest lsr kids on the block - both drivers are good, but the engine and skills to tweak it made it to the finals and back to the pit with an engine running. Somehthing which was new to many - to run there and even back without limping after hitting the records and setting boosts to new skies.

An ordinary Joe will notice the fastest path as his bike is more driveable than it used to be. Thats what they tell us when they come back from a test drive.

Can you or cant you tweak the most out of the engine - thats the questiton. Technology is there - its down to the tuner now to utilize what has been made possible like magic. Thats crystal now to the ones who have done it.

See the light - or just barking ?



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PetriK,

Oh, I agree with you that the bike has come back stepped up, no doubt.

I would not even know if this would work? But, would run the same old bullchit is run that engine up to max heat where I start pinging that thing, I back it off 2° and that is where she sits ignition, fuel wise is that heat of the day say.

So yes, darn toot tin I would be working that snowmobile's heat in the heat of competition, I would. And use any unit to get me there is bench flash, or wire the pc piggy on the back of my wire harness where I can work the same map or fuel to air ratio. Which ignition did you say needs to be moved if say a fuel other than pump gas burns at a different speed rates and you can math that map in with the time and timing map. Yes, I see where I would need to have that ignition option.

I have yet to fly with my 8 hacks in play. It's complicated, but lets say I am trying to make time to do it. I guess I have time here to speak with some sort of book explanation or speak the tech of the shop manual codes. Maybe that is the style you mentioned, and thanks that you understand my style so guys like you and RR know what I doing is chasing the same thing you are. And that is just a fuel to air ratio.

When you said to "put more into this", I am going to pour out what I think is going on? You two or RR can keep it hush/hush on your end is fine. You are hardware makers and yes, why not make a cottage industry is put a dent in the PC or other pig cutting industry, as did the electronics did to the ignition points industry.

But, will the Big4 see what you are doing, stop you from flashing the Busa/14's box down the road? I would think it is flash-able or it is yet to be found. I think you have to build the hardware first before you load the box full of software on the bench. I think the big boys will keep making it harder for you to break-in. They sure kept an eye on my open source to the bike. Changed a feature and showed it to the 14 crowd on the first year bike. Yes, that was a hot feature was the dash returned to stock if you coded the bike. They closed that loophole so you are forced to remain stock or lose your dash to a flashing FI. I use that as an example, because I cannot return to the dash with my later year bike.

Which brings me back to one 360° turn of the crank. Were the previous fuel cut units of the shop you are talking about; say, they were running a bike that was not well tuned? Lets for argument sake, say that the piggy they used where not within a fuel to air ratio and again; say we have zero engine work, but just a flash without piggy in play. Same bike/Same Rider/Same track/Same fuel/Flashed to bone stock as in a better read fuel to air ratio corrected as read in the ROM, not RAM'd by the PC is more stuck reading a 1/2 map is your piggy and the ROM clash with too much gas.

If the PC was making map, what are the odds the dyno puller, the map reader, the map itself was not well written. That is why the engine was there, but the jetting was a guess and locked out more by using the piggy with a too fat, too rich map set. Where the flash is the only reader to keep you balanced, or move out of spec [with a half/ass'd made map = pig style] via the SAE spark box that really is more generic for it is part of the ignition counts. So, 4 extra degrees gives you limp mode reading the re-machined mode.

I have a bike that can jump off of a rise in the road if I am doing like 75-80mph. Those were very few hacks in play. What are the chances the flash is running in a better 'Method' kind of tune? Are not the same maps about to be machined to that fuel to air ratio? In other words, we are running closer to what they tried to do with the PC but could not make all those numbers run as perfect as the machine in the ECU reading those squares of milliseconds in real time too.

Yes, I agree, RR may have access to the ignition maps as like the fuel maps, but you will hole a piston or burn skirts down if you retard or advance without that machine timing your event ((counts)) and they kick out the retard maps is to slow down the over-counts. They are not within the count of the mini machines covering so many steps; how are you going to move every last one and know you went full circle is full advance is key to survival. And that is set in stone by the spark unit and that machine counter.

When you flip the A/C switch on the car, you are setting a map to momentarily set the ignition to retard and then it returns to normal on the next cycle. Take a guess how many times in a sequence type system that knows to re-advance the next cylinder because the fan or pump is running at the same speed is a load about to happen. How many times do you keep the engine in retard, and for how long for an A/C fan switch?

I am wondering if the ECU and spark unit are not about to reschedule a fast re-advance back to normal locked advance like we are at a constant with the ignition being a constant with the suck of the stroke.

Here is where I see Brock reach 113 foot pounds of preset torque. I see the 14 is preset to 114ft.lbs. of torque. Did not Brock reach the preset with a piggy? Will the flash bring the preset past 114lbs? Or does the flash speed the process up to 114 is all she wrote on the N/A. Turbo is a whole different story if we are discussing torque or forced air, not Normally A as in it is on it's own vacuum suck.

Think about this. Did you read over at Psychobike about some guy that converted his computer bike to run N/A or back to carb and ignition? Yes, he beat the other same bike of same brand is what I concluded. So, does that conclude to you that the vacuum suck was spot on more than the computer could plot? Did not one 360° fill milliseconds faster than the other is the same preset torque rating?
Did not the flash time normal as in what is happening in the computer has to be more reading a lower number is a faster speed is swap the values and you lower the speed and all that is 0 to 5v analog slow flash.

Care to answer the questions that RR did not? I have a few more for you. If you flash, and work the ignitions, how is it your flash follows the limp mode? Did you shut down limp to every analog with a memory? Does the tre go limp and you flashed an ignition so it would not? Or did it default to a fat fail-safe? Did we follow that?
The next one is: Stock wise, my 1 atm sensors will know I rode up a mountain peak. It will lean down where I am not so much bucking where a carb is preset and I cannot lean out the jetting the higher I go in elevation. If flash makes more HP, it means it uses more fuel, correct? How are you going to cut down a layered over rich set, then head up a hill and expect to have it run decent or it is so rich now that I would have to pull the air cleaner just to let the air move faster than that gas moving in to take it's place?
We killing our race set? I think that is going to remain fat and stay within that proportion is what do you think?
Re-Bench my mountain tour? Or say, I can take a piggy and cut the fuel set off, return to OEM without a flash.
If I had a well written piggy map for a PC, would I be as fast or achieve the same HP/Fuel to air Ratio if we used the same bike flashed?







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Mega Squirt is for the auto industry, correct? Correct me if I am wrong, but Mega says they are coming out with something for sequence fire computers? This was less than a year ago, is say back in July '08 or there about.
Maybe that is why even if you capture the same entry, you may have to make up your own software if Mega is still working on sequential fire.

I've been reading the map with all the ignition variables you can do. If I were to chase one map, my question to you is I could touch no other map but this one only... Which map(s) would you choose.

I am on the ragged edge of shutting down wattever info I have gathered if we want to play this game with the, "Linears." I feel like, "Puddles" and I have left the building. Happy Hacking fell [on deaf] ears (I guess?) I'll sit back and watch...

You're doing great! Never stop!

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Oh no - this is just a hobby for me and I hope it to stay that way. If anyone earns money from utilizing any stuff Ive created then I have a humble wish that some of it shall be donated to DaveO:s family. Not after any household names - just having fun and making bikes way more tuneables than piggybacks previously allowed. So who cares if a box can not be tuned - as long as I can tune what I have today.

But on the level what we do today the FI is not the issue, its the ability for a tuner to learn what we have - which is so much more. Youre right, fuel consumption using a piggy is horrible due to piggys unability to tune for the vacuum map. Thats also where the drivability will be improved at a twist of a wrist.

Circle of life is to live there and get back - if we are talking about the track. For a joe we can do better and more conservative and just improve the driveability. My hopes for this season is in alcohol (E85), that will not burn a hole - unless you drink it.

When we tune the ignition inside the black box, then the limp mode limits will follow. What you say is only a problem for piggies.

The ignition was made more precise by adding the amount of tooth to the rotor - so the black box calculates each tooth and even estimates when the next will come. Its very precise in what it thinks will happen next, so its not constant - it only appears to be so. Inside the black box brain it really tries its best in guessing what happens next, and its very good in it as long as no-one messes up the lines it gets the information in.

The tuning is a skill, either you learn and develop or you stick what you know. Either or the black box is just one heck of a carburator and ignition advancer with vacuum.

The questions are somewhat talking different what we have, therefore so difficult to answer only yes, no, maybe. A few years back I organised a couple of classes on car ecu tuning - maybe we should do the same with motorcycle ecu - to give an ability to ask and get an answer.

More power may mean less longlasting engine. The airplanes run on lean side of the stoich to save fuel - but they always monitor the exhaust temperatures. If we run on the lean side of stoich, we should do the same - but yes, lean side means more power per grams per fuel.

At 100% throttle, not much difference on all motor - but lets say youre cruising at 8% at highway and then youll feel the difference.

A couple of years ago we put mega in a R1 engine into a mini cooper chassis - so a motorcylce engine in a car frame - which industry is that ?

The ears may be dead, so many hours in a dyno and on a track - luckily I can still read and feel the wind on my face.


I always choose the map that takes me here and back - other than that and I am not all there.




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To continue my open source loop, as in a test ride yesterday; I have concluded the more you try to code your way up the hack page, the worse she runs. My last and final attempt was the bike would not idle at all; pretty much shut down the D-J as per book, and if you wanted to run this to the dealer for a code clear, the bike would get you there but in a super limp mode = She is not tunable:

[B]EE Guys RULE![/B]

I am removing all hack mods. She was a waste but more for systems diagnostics it was not. I now see more comprehension as to the defaults as in shutting down systems in the a-N ~ D-J fuel sides. One side runs fine [up to mid point] but goes limp if you want red-line and she bangshe bangs retard/stalls with all that fuel unspent. Limp to the D-J drops out and the a-N is all she wrote. The hacks or each code > Followed the backup default page, in the absolute steps to the practical event stated in the abstract:

1. Backup = Kawasaki Term.
2. Fail-Safe = Suzuki's lingo for the same event.
3. Limp Mode = Auto World events; all basically mean the same analog dropout to safe [limp to get you there] riding to a dealer is the car/bike has a faulty signal = Correct the closed loop of the analog signal or the vehicle is a boat anchor.

Keep searching, Gentlemen! I'm at a dead end...

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Oh no - reads like problems with harness - those are the most difficult ones to trace down without a proper s-word.

To utilize what we have all the sensors must be in impeculiar shape, noting too open, nothing too close.

If the data streams freely, the sensor value s-and double words can be read on the computer screen (and f-words to be said a-loud). Looking the screen helps seeing through where the cut in and dig deeper, to fix what is to be fixed and not to mess with things that are good already.

Maybe to play with the datastream screen, that should reveal more truth ?


-- Edited by PetriK on Thursday 9th of April 2009 03:44:34 PM

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I had to buy a 14 advancer unit to show myself she is going straight to that reset machine in the spark unit.

That will again show me how the bike will limp mode as you hack the codes. I am finding out the hacks are a hidden limp, even though you think you feel an advantage.

Yes, you feel that subthrottle rise in a GPS hack, but do not see the limp it also creates. It basically limps in the next wire of the same GPS hack as you can see that the units are made for both wires is really just a wire swap to the same aftermarket unit.

So, when you hear you need this GPS thingy for one wire but you have to have the flies out for this to work is now do you see what two limps are doing?

What I am saying is that if I could ride a non-flashed Busa and now hum along sitting on a flashed Busa, I think I am going to duplicate the same tone of ride if you are feeling more of an electronic tone rather than an analog tone.

I mean, these are my two reference points between analog feed and digital feed. I have video of those two distinct sounds. So, I am more or less stepping to the limp tone and there we go is, I just detuned the bike.

Now, will this advancer bring that limp back in line? I do not know? The whole point of the advancer try is try to eliminate the limp within the limp. Make sense as far as a tuning direction?

The advancer went nowhere as far as sending me into the reset box or the machine that counts the wave length. If that length is short or long, the cut box is going to cut my tune all up. Sill make sense chasing the fuel injection tune and your hands are handcuffed in the chase?

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I don't know if you check in on my videos, but are we looking at that slight window of tune went no place? I induced a slight buzz to the more smoother stock tone wheel. WATT does that tell you that the engineering is setting that wave in the center where it is base stock or wave stock smooth.

Did she wave me out of an advance curve once I had the limp set? She just limped to the limp. So for me, stock is peak performance. Set the trim inside the ECU and we have the change needed.

The physical moves to the outside mods; like the wire hack or the advancer is for me, the wrong direction; especially, if you can work the fuel as well as the ignition trim in the main controller [the flash way].

Just so you know that some tre thing is for the birds as far as a performance enhanced mod? Half to find out for yourself on that little ground. If the FSM states it is safe to ride, it didn't say it was safe to being on par with a stock bike that is not in the limp mode.

I may feel a slight bump on the bottom, but the top signs off and I doubt a PC would help as in the 14. The Busa is an old animal and can be flashed. I'm sure the 14 is no different. It's just a matter of how to ping it.

I am back to zero once again and that is code-less. Between Delphi and their chess game piece called a revert back to the stock trim is I saw that PC come on board; she locked you out PC [pretty clever]. Instead of a war in court with the aftermarket, it is more the engineers take on the piggy their way is the next move is now you.

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That's some impressive work, RR. When I read or just tried to figure out the 14's ign map, I would have to look at the fuel blocks to see what those two are doing. I have no clue how to read the map.

Well, yes, if I just kept pondering without any computer science, I'd have to work backwards. So, what I am saying is can you pull every single map out of that box?

Here is watt I know for a FACT: No matter the hack = No ignition retard happens. I've thrown 4 on the fly. Now the map sort of makes sense if you can pull the other maps, so I can read the ignitions to show how those grid positions did not change unless you move the TPS.

That is what I think(?. Since I've thrown a few switches to verify on video, I would have to assume the advance just hangs on the sustain as well as any other backup.

Now, if you pulled the entire map structure out as you could visually build that 3-D map in the Busa manual, I would assume you could see both year changes between ECU's.

Getting back to the maps, fuel wise. I'd like to see the maps that change to the backup.

If you have the ability to change the '06 with your flash program, then the '09 box as well, imagine swapping ECU's page for page. Kind of makes your blood run to an appendage.

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If I stayed on top of the Busa websites, I would have caught that software you posted back in '08, Ridge, but I missed the abstract words up on the screen up to this point and can sort of give you a seat of the pants explanation of the gear applies.

You can mess up the gear hard and gear soft applies. You do not get this right, you better hope you can keystroke back to on/off or hard/soft as the software shows it looks like you can set numbers to the hards or soft apply of, gear/fuel/ign.

What I am about to, "think out" in head, as you read the 'raw-data' from my rear end connected to the throttle pinned at WOT; I may say, might be so off base, I could care less. Since I have no clue about software and how it works, I can guess whatever I like so azz to explain to myself how my interpretations pan out on each test ride.

If I read the Busa software my way...

 

... I have to breakdown the software and I do not know where to start? So, what I think it does, and how you KNOW it does, show me where I might be going in the wrong direction, because this has to walk in some practical way and what is show on the screen and how to manipulate the maps are what I am confused about.

So, here is where I can off the wall my abstract, so as to read how they set up the 3 variables. What I see are the low and high fuel/ign trims in the a-N and J-D setting of say the 14; Busa and the 14 being somewhat generic between bikes. Therefore, if we use the GPS to set our higher rpm, we set our, SoftLo/SoftHi/Ing Hi, to the HardLo/HardHi/Ign Hi setting.

Say for argument sake, we take our monitor (the sensors) readings from the outside of the ECU. Call that the "analog" setting or the low cuts. When we are in hack setting or usurp the 3wV  or the 3 basic wire variables (1.Not connected. 2.Wire out of connector. 3. Wire short to ground.), are the abstracts you read in the FSM and that is all the help you get, manual wise.

Once this event happens on the outside of the ECU, you are going to default this same method inside. I would think the hard setting is my guess. I ping a wire, it defaults to Hard. That hurts my shift quality big time, believe it or not. I am wondering if the 86/104 (ign/fuel maps respectively) are the size loads needed to make the bike function at both analog/digital modes. Loss of sensors that fail and almost each needs to code a backup file or map/ign.

I'm trying to decipher if I am using the "method" as to guide me to the low to mid/mid to WOT transition. I had a Boeing engineer plot out the FI and it was cool to watch the steps. What I can somewhat remember is something to do with 60 cycles and then somehow, nature splits that in half somehow? So you have to sort of follow this low/hi or the method of say this same basic FI step. Cool part is the system's constant evolution from single fire to sequential spark; still using the same a-N and D-J method(s).

Now, the old Busa may not be in sequence fire. I could search and find out, but I am going to guess that this 9 year old bird has "electronic" old style single fire, where the 14 is in "digital" and has sequential fire. I mean, how many maps are you about to mess with and get it right? Are we not in some minimum adjust as in chase the 12000K rpm?

I sure do not want the GPS to follow the hard cut. All I can say is there is a big difference and you do not want to go there. And the way things are panning out, your only hack is set the code or set the hard. You are stuck with a hard shift. It's pretty amazing but this exactly how it feels on the fly. These are (((FI))) flashing hard codes on the dash hacks; where there is no way to reset the clock, the trip, your tach light, and all the rest that mode button on the dash is used for.

If you can get the software to switch to hard max rpm, soft shift quality, and no dash flashing, that would be a nice ride. Technically, these are fuel sucking limps. I was in heavy hard and that tank sucked heavy and hard on basically the same loop I use for consistency and fuel metering. If I think about it, should I think the same event is happening, as a faster event like the air gate opening when the GPS is hacked using the Busa. Same GPS hack if you wire the 14 to open the subs sooner.

Don't you think you just set the timing to move sooner? Same kind of event? Hack the GPS, she maps to red. The N box is one wire. Busa say in the FSM, 6Locked as the 14 reps the same abstract in the (6)?


Show me that 5th gear, if I show you the N|6 on your dash code reads red~unlimited. biggrin



No? We are not on the same page? no

I now look at the N and 6 again. What comes up on the dash once you hack the GPS? If I look at the screen of the Busa, then look at both 14/Busa manuals, do both not the read the same gear window in the GPs Page sort of step to the red 12K Hard Event(s)?

And now with the 86/104 ignition and fuel changes, are not a set of maps scheduled to take the place of either wire to the GPS or any other sensor? I think a file comes out to replace said 3wV. If you can follow how I read this, one of you programmers needs to correct my undoing.

Setting yourself up for a hard shift, you will not be happy about it. I about died; I thought my bike took a turn for the worse. GPS might be telling me, shift quality might/might-not suffer you connect the right dots.




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How have things been Sevin??   I see you are still thinking this out....



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Been hectic. I'm in a 24/7 caretaker mode and I cannot get out or leave as I please. It just does not work out where I have a luxury to work hours toward the bike and neglect the more important part of the job that takes up a lot of my time.

I have time for breakfast/lunch/dinner/food shop/prepare food/clean/med schedules/etc. And for me to jump in the garage and ride to test, I have a small window if say I run out of meds for the month and no way can I just pick up all the meds I have to dish out each day and no bottle sync's in as if I can work that out with the insurance co.

But during the times I can run for that med coming around on that 30 day supply, then comes my road test where I can get out, run to the place to get them. Be on a Watt/WOT ride. Sat or Sun is a longer window in the morning where I can get out for a longer stop and go loop.

I have that stepper motor sitting on the outside of the bike. There is no sub-shaft in the way of the throttle body I am using. The FI flashing was a big headache. Now that the sub actuator is active, I have a drive-ability problem. On normal riding, there is no hesitation. On rapid throttle apply, we sort of hit that dyno lag you see the low cruise A/F ratio. I think I might be in that window adding more air to that troth. Once I am past that area, she acts normal.

Yes, Stocker, I think I am addicted to FI. I cannot get enough of this stuff. I'm trying to walk the steps. Ridge may have opened the door to where I was stagnating sitting at the prongs of the black box. But reading that programming jpg page, I think that hack in red can be hit with a hard and hit with a soft.

I am finding more dash code signals from the 14. I did not download a code to figure who that sensor was? I am more trying to locate the codes of the, "phantom." There are 4 ways you can cause a code. 1.Wire 2. Sensor 3. Air 4. Mechanical.

The hobby obsession is more to follow the way the bike codes and how those sensors can throw you someplace else if they spit the code number. Some guy replacing cam sensors when the crank sensor was loose but did not code itself. That there was a perfect "phantom code" to spend money on for nothing.

So, I more or less hack the flashing FI to the hard set is my guess. Lose the gas, lose the shift quality. I mean, if you are chasing the same thing without the dash flashing FI, I think you might also be limited to what could be the on/off or hard/soft applies. The hacks sure feel that way.

And as we speak, I am setting up more test runs to toggle. I have a different idea that I'm going to try. This bike is really becoming uglier buy the day. One mod after the other, I'm starting to get lost a little, trying out a few 86/104's.


I think I am pulling up a few backup files to nowhere. So how is it going on your end, Stocker?

-- Edited by hubkup on Tuesday 29th of September 2009 04:55:51 AM

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still trying very hard to understand the ascii coding in such numbers are symbols,symbols are characters and characters are coding......in which they must work hand and hand,and i am in with both hands.......smile

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OK, I think I made mention about how you would want the hard/soft blending, if you could work the software? Last night, I took a test run. I have seven or eight toggles scattered on either side of the bike.

I am flipping codes on the fly. First of all, I really do not know what I am doing. I just have this practical event or theory, trying so many ways to swap maps or set the codes. By accident, I may have stumbled on individually setting a hard, where the soft set is uninfected.

Riding in the dark, feeling for toggles, then watching a pumpkin appear in the middle of the road. That, plus the need to pull over, swapping wires and such, were more for daylight work.

What I could do was to throw some switches at this tone I was feeling. I let traffic move on ahead, had the bike down to 1st or 2nd and then kept on speed shifting the box over and over. Slow down, toggle off, toggle(s) on say, the shift quality quickly turned sour.

That meant, I set the N or the (6), on top of the latest hack. I piled on the N|6 together on top of whatever I had captured. Thumbs down went the shifting to hard apply. REAL sloppy! Sort of like the drum would not set on the roll. Made the guy hang up, electrically. Kind of hard to explain.

I shut the GPS off all together. Shift quality came back to a, "plush deliciousness." Yeah, hard to explain like I said. Here is what is so puzzling; I could deliberately shift sloppy, compare that with the hard set using the N or the (6) butting in; was like night and day! No Bull.

And because my foot was not happy feeling the difference, I can now explain the acceleration part and that tone quality: Introducing the GPSignals. Here is another quandary I will fall into; trying to explain the throttle apply and how that effect changes the bike's characteristics.

Stock wise, I think I am following a fuel lag rather than an air lag. My other tests without the air cleaner have yet to happen. Therefore, I have no clue which hack will like a little more air speed? The wire set is all out of whack and I need a color code system as to what I have hooked up so I can see where they might track in the FSM. Kind of semi-complex for me. I'm not strong in the electrics part and it's hard to follow.

And because I could not select the on/off combination I am looking for, this hack [being on constantly] did not upset the 'standard' shift feel I now expect always! Not only that, this hack sort of layered over a fuel kick to where the 'belly lag' seemed to be filled sort of heavy with a fuel bump, adds that robust ignition advance speed too.

Again, once you select a hack over what is set now, this fuel layer packs it on top of the other and more like over-jets the tune. The less you release codes that set the hard loop, the bike picks up a cleaner, more responsive tone. I set the N or (6), it sort of slows down/speeds up the throttle response; adds more fuel layer(?) Kind of fuel lag-ish.

Something is going on, because the test loops I ride are basically the same roads traveled to maintain a constant run/mileage at the settings. This is where I can monitor how many pounds of liquid are poured back into the gas tank. Not that I've attempted this on a more controlled manor. Right now, I have 5 gallons of gas weighing in at approx 30lbs.

Now I can set the pounds; as a morning loop would have me traveling the speed limit without heavy traffic slowing me down. The speed limit would be the constant. I now return home, weigh out the fuel at the rim of the tank's spigot entry. Go back out with a hack applied and sample that limp, weigh how much it depleted the gas tank; in the hard settings I select on the test loop.

Since these are weekend outings, I come across a crop of bike and car buffs hanging out in canyons, playing road racer. Sometimes, hacks are in play and out of play as I test for the day. And since you know what kind of bike you are on, not too many vehicles are a challenge, once you squirt from corner to corner. With that sort of sportsmanship and same-same mindset of the other drivers/riders, this scotches my whole fuel plan, I step up the pace with their aggressive moves.

For example, just a few test loops ago, I was in a heavy 'hard-set' with a few hacks in play. Though most of this run was downhill and still traffic up front, the fuel tank showed me how fat the hacks can deplete the gallons in a hurry; once you start playing racer in the canyons. I've taken on a few vehicles in a sporting manor, but as deep a cut I was in, the performance did not wimp out. It felt more of the same instant ignition curve on as it instantly backs off, waiting once you reapply a hint of throttle, the bike reapplies that fast ign curve.

This to me is where the hacks now act a bit more grunt happy, more twitchy; because of the advance curve change and fuel trim. Since I am at a stopping point on the new hack setting(s), I found the bike to run hot with fan on during the day. No running at all at night, being I reset nothing for the night test run from the previous afternoon. I was questioning how a hack may have set more heat into the bike with a touch more fuel trim. This is not the case or is the case, as I keep questioning how my pipes changes to a more orange hue reflection once the hack is applied.

To recap, I found the transmission's soft tone ineffective; a hard fuel trim hack that removes what I perceive to be the low speed lean belly line of the dyno curve at low speed. And to tell you the truth, I have no clue if this is stock or I hacked into something? The fuel pounds do not add up. That makes me want to say that the N select was and I mean, WAS the best O/A ride. But with the throw to the GPS and to feel that N botch the smoother shift, was to remove the soft settings of the GPS?
See, I have to attempt two more ways to confirm I am outside the 'stock' setting I think I am in? If I pull wire, the ride is the same; WOW, stock is king, meaning. pulling wires off this way did nothing but set the hard of the hard. But if I find that same throttle setting another way and the transmission shift is ruined with the next code set, then, yes, I found a way to set the hard f/i curves without upsetting the soft apply at the shift lever, or I went nowhere... And I don't think so.

ASCII GPS Hard Set = &-#-23-;



-- Edited by hubkup on Thursday 1st of October 2009 02:02:49 PM

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I'm sitting here watching my old bike camera videos. I found something very interesting and am now wondering if the, and this is for argument sake, we use the 86/104 map scheduling. I am trying to match why I need these maps and where to and when to use them. What I discovered between the raw video and the edited video, point out either a walk or I am speaking blanks, trying to figure how all this works.

OK, let me try to show you watt I mean. When I watch in real time, passing this vehicle, the camera's digital ping would scatter old footage that was copied over and splice it back into the real time. I think it is more the audio ribbon they use on the camera, I have no clue but to assume the left pings both change in the air what the telemetry in the bike is sending.

Here is where I go weird theory. As I follow Ridge's exploring, Pet's work, Stocker's and all the other programmers/EE's, I have my little ping playpen in my own little part of the world. I want to say that the maps pop up on gear to throttle position.

And when I am in gear or change gears, I have a lot of camera ping. When I am in 6th, I can throttle the rheostat ride and that ping on the screen is minimal. Does that tell me that 6th is in soft apply and being few maps appear to swap? Why the static then?

I'm using the Busa map(s) above as I try to step here or step there from outside the black box. So, am I stepping correctly if I see the static ping, I am in lower gears; higher rpm; change of throttle position and then all hell breaks loose.

Do the maps swap in the folder? Gear map for gear and now I say, TPS swaps maps in the milli or nano wham-O; we have over a hundred maps and I think they are flying like pancakes once the speed is needed. That means, I can see the static rip! And as I just thought of this, I can now slow the, "ping scheduling" call it, because I am trying to compile a step.

Here is what I know. Since viewing the above map, I see a lot of ignition86 and fuelers104. They just do not sit there, but pop up on the ping lets say. If I speed the ping and condense the noise, I hear the sound of a pop as I pass the vehicle. Watt I am trying to remember is if I heard a sort of pop off the cager's air pocket.

We are on some ripple ride, lets say. Did I hear that pop off the car? If I speed up the strip of video, think, compile sounds like an air bubble took a pop? I might add that I placed myself in the guy's mirror so if there was an air gap between bike and car?; call it, feeler gauge gap. I think I sucked a bubble off the car. I know I am imaging things. I'm sure the video just pushed out watt sounds like a bubble burst. That way; "Imagine' you hear John Lennon sing backwards.
------------------------------------------------------------------

If you followed me up to this point, i will now try to walk what might be the hard's and soft's apply. I had a little situation with a Mustang. I kept the bike in 6th and notice how the deepest blue on the software shows "SoftCutLo." If I watch that video and hammer that Mustang all in 6th gear without using the brakes but just coast kill that horse is ass, I can see the pings are a lot less in that gear.

I think the blue gear positions are low pings. Red pings, happen with a lot of scheduling. Which brings me back to setting the camera up once again, set the hacks, run in the, "Red N|6" and see if the hard pings happen all scattered like the low gears, but stay in 6th using the same throttle feeding I gave that Mustang, regurgitating on it's own oats or on the brakes, ass in, "the hard set."

I want to say thanks [If I haven't already]... For digging into these boxes, guys. You are showing me what little I know of this hobby and how she runs in the hard and soft hits. Makes a lot of sense to me trying to walk that thin line of how this FI operates as in practical theory.



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When the 14 first came out, I found a trick to return the dash back to the standard display [FI Flashing], once the hack was on that is. And somehow, that feature or loophole was no longer hackable once I replaced the ZX I threw away with the insurance; then found out the factory pulled the rug from under me sorta speak.

Call it coincidence, or whatever happens next, I found another loophole and I have to just save that one for tech inspection kind of I tell you all, then how you gonna cheat passing something under the nose of those who hold the purse strings to racing venues?

I had it and lost it at the same time. I use the Welcome title of my thread, because of that dashack. I found that by accident. Now I found another one by, "Hack Sea Dent."

And no, I do not want to start a business, design the whole, "HacKit" and call it buy name. This is for racing pour piss is only. Piz all over the comPeetition and Paz 'em UP.

Once you have your kit setup, Checkmate! So, rather than compete with your kit, I am more in the racing part of the way you can sneak something under the radar, say nothing.

All I can say is, hi/loWOW! Hit me hard/hit me soft.

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http://www.bikeland.info/images/zx14/zx14_012.jpg

Once again, you feed me this data, I see the X to Y keystroke and that is all she wrote. This looks more like preset machine data. You plug in the X to Y and the machine does the rest. How could it not re-machine the plot you picking a number out of a grid slot and does that not set the other maps to the new, machined X to Y on one grid you make a move? That machine is going to counter in some way is smoke your Iridium's.

It looks like you set the bike one way, the machine is going to counter alone with the ECU in the backup or if you cannot set the code, you sure do set up another on/off of the color bars in the GPS... Looking at the Busa software.

And since I have you hear, how are sales? And are your customers going back to the other piggy or is this the all in one setting, you can't improve holding key sort of speak. Thanks for answering.

-- Edited by hubkup on Tuesday 6th of October 2009 07:10:00 PM

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Here is what I know so far:

There are sets of base "compensation maps." Once you set the baseline, this will also adjust 2-3-4 cylinders. This is Denso software from a Kit ECU for the 600/1000 Kawasaki.

1. Compensation for acceleration (sound like a pump?)
2. Comp map for injection 1 = 1 and 2 cylinders.
A. Comp map for injection 2 = Numbers 3 and 4 cylinders.
3. Comp map for Spark Advance
4. Comp map for Subthrottle (lock to open = Faster opening I believe)
5. Comp map for exhaust actuator (locks open for max flow, I would assume)
... And more.

The software has a GPS comp map. This is where I am setting a hack of a hit to a plush shift apply or one of those blocks with a selected setting in the preset [like I know what I am talking about?]. The down side is I can fell the hard limp activate. If I can run the hacked GPS comp settings that I have now; the stock, non-lag tone I can feel on the hack that happens on the other half of the equation; if I can harness a kit ecu to the 14....

What specific questions are you missing or want to know, RR? Fill in the blank. I am in the process of building a racing harness from scratch. I have limited info off this software. I have yet to fill in the blanks I am seeking is why I asked to see the software abstract.

My contact came through with a little R&D support. This is a trial run on the bench. I received the parts a little while ago. Here are two ECU's. It says N-G on the 600-kit/ecu,ECU of a... And the other ECU/Harness is off a 1000.

My '08 throttle body will be matched to this harness with the other "Comp's" in-tow.



What might look doable is one thing. Watt I would like to accomplish is to comp the gear position sensor map. You can adjust the GPS a whole bunch of ways, but there is a formula I have yet to comprehend what they mean? This would be something for you, RR, where if you were looking at it, RR, I think you could see what they mean.

If I can hot the box, I might have a map or two pop up. I can swap maps. I can "axis' a cut and paste block of grids and move them all over the map. If there are no maps saved in the kit ECU, I would have to abort the harness build? Right now, I am stuck without some kind of harness to download off of the ECU to the computer tower. It says to use two wires from the harness near the ECU.

Just a quick ride back to my contact; see his communication setup, match wires so I can make a wire loom from box to box. I'm starting to think this thing out since I more wanted the "cuts" and "alpha's" answered, but the software is not that involved or explains the use this radio clicks.

I more am cross/signaling the automotive flashing and what the chips swapping can do as with the software used by the car aftermarket. And to tell you the truth, the software is already made is just plug and play. But I am more in the backdoor theory part that you really do not need to know. It won't help you tune. The theory is more how does a float in a gas tank work, while you know the race gas or octane rating you already know what to use. See, my point? I'm asking how the gas got to point A to point B.

This is more how the abstract is written to comprehend what are the two settings that are used and what the hard and soft really mean? The kit works, as to how to tune it. I'm boring you, I know, but here is one more thing about this software. You have no base map as I downloaded the software. The 'comp maps' all read zero.

I would assume, without watching the software in action, I would assume the zero map is base whatever you turn the key on, you see the numbers of the stock bike. Now you plus or minus a range of numbers into each grid. So, say you build the map from scratch from X to Y all the way across every grid; you enter a number in the (-) or the (+) side from base comp setting.

What the software does is enter a number that defaults big to the max (+), you get it wrong on the build. The same happens, you under number the minimum (-), it will shoot to the lowest base, you moved way off the scale and now the ECU takes over your Iridium's.

You can see the software show that you have the comp at the map making "Comp 1-2 mapping." That means, it would set the grids in the comp map. You just set the other 3 cylinders to machine run the map you made at the software side of it.

One last thing. What is described as to building a map, you have to follow with a plus or a minus as to how you fill a line. For example; say your base is some random number for demonstration purposes. Say we use 10. If we set the next number to the grid, we need to step it up above the number (to 15) from the 10 if you move to the right. If we jet down on the split second the injector stays open, then we have to minus the grid [from 10 to 5] to the right of the base number.

I'm looking at a few DJ maps and the radical maps are all over the place that my be spiking to the peak number in the preset where the software knows PC wise, the same application the Kit ECU does, meaning, if you bounce all over what the software says to follow to the letter or else! Again, I can only assume one more unanswered question that pops up each time I find new info.

The hobby never tires. And because I set two codes [one going there/the other coming home] I can tell that trans shifts with a better combo hacked of that GPS setting. If I can hack a wire and that gear steps up to the better numbers, imagine I can jerk the GPS and the resistors they use to checkmate me. This is what I am all about. That shift quality is to die for. Now, if I can reset the bike to stock, that thing is smooth as glass and has power to spare.



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As I go over the Kit ECU software, I am finding out that the 1000 is limited to only 300rpm. The 600 are unlimited up to 12,000rpm. This too may fall into the preset program, trying to get the 1000 to run more than the 300rpm it is set to.

The preset program lets you program so much or will set you at the full + 30 or -15 fuel cuts. In other words, the settings can be, +20.4, or -14.9. It's that minute in the fuel feed. Say, you insert a +50? It goes right to the +30 default number.

So, I would assume you hack that 12K rmp to apply to the bigger bore, it might default back to 300rpm, you thinking that you move the rpm to the top rpm limit.

As far as the gear combination settings, this change is for the close ratio gears you can buy for the transmission. You then select the grid off the gear map, to match the new gear ratio to match the speedo change.

What has me puzzled, are the changes to the one hack I discovered. I can tell you this much. The hack does not complete a circuit to ground like normal channels. There is a fuel change, being the gas bars drop during the routine riding of the constant loop I take.

The shifting feels sloppy and hard to engage during shifts. The hack eliminates this altogether. The shifts are more solid, stab with less foot pressure. Strange how this ties into that sensor system.

With the Kit ECU, I will attempt to duplicate the shift quality if I can get this unit up and running and drop the fuel bleed the backup creates.

-- Edited by hubkup on Monday 12th of October 2009 11:49:07 AM

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On this day, 10/19/2009 I have found yet another way to hack the computer, which is to remove the code from the dash. That means this sort of makes 3 variables. 1. Do not code anything is a clear dash. 2. Set a shift code that causes the shift lever to run cleaner/smoother/effortlessly without a dash flash. 3. The new hack which shuts down the dash flashing "FI" and restores the dash all in the hack setting.
I think I may have covered all 3 combos. I may find others, but again, at approximately 10:20am today; I found a new way to hack the computer all by, "Hack Sea Dent."

I have not ridden the bike to cause the hack to pop up and happen during the test ride. No, I have a static, key on/engine off type hack. But say, once the engine demands more input than a key on incident, this may set the code. I think it might, but I do not know for sure. We shall find out soon enough.

I have the bike sort of splattered, electrically. In awhile, I will attempt a road test. This will tell me if I have the dash flashing once again, as I return the harness/ECU's to the rightful owner. If the run back with the parts is to either borrow the tether I need from box to tower or abort the idea altogether and let the parts sit in a box. I think I can make this setup work. But without that information harness, the mod is not in the cards; especially if I have to shell out hundreds for a harness and some idea that is just an idea that may not pan out.

I wish I could tell you how simple this is to do, but I rather wait for Ridge to come out with the his software kit package, then match my hacking to the internal flashing as if the hack was the same limited internal software Ridge is developing. Remember, that map will un-flash itself, she does not conform to the pre-machined parameters like the, -15/+30 reset is if you get it wrong... Look out!


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I pretty much concluded, I cannot duplicate what I saw the other night. I did take a test-run to my 'sponsor' more or less. The hack did not do well. I have now abandoned that sensor.
---------------------------------------------------------

I returned home with more parts from my sponsor(?). Therefore, I will begin to proceed with my attempt to take a stab at creating a racing harness for my ZX-14.

I'm now about to work with the 1000 harness and the stock 1000 ecu. If I can get the 14 to fire up, and then swap the (NG) kit-ECU to light the bike again, I'll know this way if the kit-ECU will be good to go or is junk.

Because for now, the software [tether] is sometime down the road. I was told the tether to the tower was expensive to say the least.

So, my first attempt to run the bike will be to match as much analog data as I can plug into the ECU. I guess I am out of here for awhile. I'll know soon enough if this thing will fly on the .0 to 5.0v.

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Say Ridge,

I'm talking to some guy that knows a little bit of fashing. He's telling me that one ECU had 50,000 items inside where they had to run thru all these parameters before they figured out how to flash this certain ECU.

The guy was not there when I made the visit this afternoon. So, I talked to one of his employees who gave me that little tidbit of info.

I then asked deeper questions where he was lost more or less. I have to wait for the owner of the place to return next week.

As I was searching just now, I came across someone who had his bike flashed, (not a Busa) where he says, and I paraphrase the quote:

"I just got an ecu that was reflashed! Works perfectly. The best part is the guy that does them offers them in 2 versions...'

'I can already tell a big difference at low rpms. This is one of the best things I bought for my bike. I love it! It makes the [bike] like its supposed to be. It still needs to be tuned really badly though. I'm gonna get it to the dyno in the next couple weeks."

I would think the 'outside hack' [think TRE] is the flash, if all the guy did was toggle the backup maps. So, if he is saying that he needs it tuned to remove the over-rich limp mode, all that flash did was to hack the faster subthrottle action; hack the ignition faster like the TRE mod. He went nowhere... no


That is my thinking. Am I wrong? Remember, it is not a Busa. This is where you send your ECU to be flashed for big dollars.  evileye Thanks!

BTW, you can take the Kit-ECU and change parameters 65,500 times before you need to replace the ECU.




-- Edited by hubkup on Thursday 29th of October 2009 04:00:33 AM

-- Edited by hubkup on Thursday 29th of October 2009 04:05:07 AM

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There is a guy I met that can flash a certain computer brand. But, come to find out, he has a subcontractor exposing the detailed work. I tried to pick his brain about the steps involved, but it was more like a dead end for me to ask.

He told me when they first started to hack the ECU, there were (thousands) of lines of parameters that did nothing so as to throw off the hacker. Eventually, the EE found the key line of data needed to run the flashing. He stated that there were lines of data that meant nothing to throw one off. He was talking about having an ECU inspected at a race and the unit came back having all outside components working, like the horn, lights, etc. So, the tech inspector could not catch the cheating going on, being he is no longer with the racing organization.

I then asked if the flashing was more setting a soft to hard code? Because he was not giving me a set walk to the way the ECU was moving in steps, I sort of ended the conversation. I needed to talk to his EE. Sure, he can work the flash once the program was written, but to discuss the finer points, I am back to square one.

I then offered to show him what I did to my bike. Pointed out the actuator hanging outside the throttle body and the toggle hacks I had going. He mentioned how rich these setting were and of course, I knew that with the riding loops I would take with the hacks set and the gas tank fuel bars on the dash slowly sucking down that fuel, if I pulled up the wrong backup map.

I then mentioned the one sensor acted like an 02. We kind of argued the point being, you'd think he be on top of that step. I did not tell him he could open a certain shop manual, see the page that eliminated the (open loop) sensor and replaced that with the (closed loop) 02 system.

He then mentions about using a certain ohm resistance where guys would use this to set the GPS to read 4th gear, where this triggered the higher rpm, etc. I more needed to see/feel that little trick in action. Because, I've tried a few resistance factors off the GPS and that puppy defaults to the backup (6)lock each time. Sure, it shows you are in 4th or 5th gear [locked on the dash display] as if you can build a quote, "TRE" to set 5th. But, I was not about to argue this hack if he did not recognize the sensor/02 loops.

Each time you nail 6th gear, that backup is now loaded to the 6th gear backup display. And if you shift back to 4th gear to lock that map up again [as if] on the downshifts? Not! That hack feels the same in 4th as it does in 6th/Locked.

I then commented that since the bike community was a small group, I knew the same people he knew, mentioned a few names that he would know, then [he] made comment about these two certain people. I had good chuckle.

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RR, Hope you don't mind... I'll just hang in this hole, show how I'm going to build a wire harness for the Kit-ECU and see if the unit still works. I figure if the bike starts with the ECU, I can then get inside the ECU with the help of my sponsor who is supplying my addiction with harnesses and ECU's.

Once again, this might be a big flop, but I am going to show what it takes to service a wire harness if need be. If nothing but for grins, I am going to build one wire harness out of two. And as I move along in the progression, I will learn things the hard way and pass the final results to you, so you do not screw up like I have been doing.

It took a number of tries [9] to come up with a decent service tool that would not destroy my main harness, which btw is a virgin 'take off' from a Kawi 1000. This morning, my buddy/sponsor handed me a beat up 600 Kawi wire harness. What I worked on for awhile, was finding a technique and/or tool that would slip in the back, depress the tang and be done with it.

But what finally worked, happened to be a twist of .025 diameter aircraft grade safety wire. The wire was twisted up to a depth, where you can crush a long loop as your tongue depressor. This happened to work time after time. I walked away from pulling out the ends, then I picked up the bent wire, plunged it down the back of the ECU's plastic connector and she popped out as I simultaneously pulled both wire and depressor out together.

That was one major hurtle solved. Now I have to convert all the 1000 wires to the Kit-ECU built for a 600/1000. Because the bike can run with a stock 600 harness, the 1000 needs a wire harness adapter, where she then converts to the 600's wires to the ECU.

So with the 600's harness ends having few matching connectors to the 1000 or 14, the 1000 has one main connector I am going to use and build from there. Basically, the 600 wire ends will be used as a mirror to the 1000 connector ends. Once I trace what 600 wire when to what sensor, tilt, fuel pump, etc., I then can build the main racing harness with minimum wires.







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sevin, keep up with the good work!!!! it looks like you are one of the members trying.......smile

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Thanks, Stocker.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gba9JXGqqok

This video should be up and running by now. They may not like the music being in violation or it's a busy morning. Either way, I came up with a simple tool to transfer wires to other ECU prongs. Plus, this tool helps to eliminate other wires I will not need to light the bike off with the kit-ECU.

I don't know how many torn up connectors there out there? A piece of safety wire can do wonders if you do not have the special tool needed to remove/service/repair the many wires on the bike.

We [my sponsor and I] discussed fuel and ignition trims, but I think there is enough milliseconds needed to feed the bike. Also, I have the adjustable advancer that might help, if I don't move out of the square wave with the cam to crank settings.

You would think 360° should fall in place between sensors. I'm going to rely on the bike to charge itself as I loophole the ignition system. I'm trying to run two ECU's when all this is over. Sort of, 'Plug'Un'Play.'

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As the process evolves, it took just one wire snip of the umbilical cord to sever two bulk wire harnesses from one. On the left are the wires that run the fuse box, handle bar switches, key fob, dash pod, winkers, etc.

On the right, are the FI sensor wires needed to eliminate as many codes setting the ECU into 'limp mode.' Basically, the main wire harness off the throttle body uses the same connector as the 14. Therefore, a lot of the modifications are more a plug and play into the 1000 harness than what would been a nightmare if the 600 harness were to be used.

The next step is to build the throttle body wire harness and begin to fill the ECU connector holes. We still need to tie the safety switches together so the bike starts. We need to use both a fuse box to protect the ECU and a kill or toggle switch to turn on/off the (+) power to the ECU.

What will be determined is to run the charging and lighting system off the 14, while the ECU runs in the remote; more like having two entities working as one.







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Here you see the stock ZX-600 harness run the length of the bike rack. On the left is the completed racing harness that is plugged into the throttle body and stops there.

I still have to install a few fuses, hot wire with 12v to the unit and see if she'll fire off the bike. Bar any unforeseen circumstances, we might loophole one major problem.

This unit is designed for 8 injectors. The 14 has 4 injectors. I'm hoping for a limp mode to happen, where the secondaries take over for the primaries. We shall find out soon enough.

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I had some unfinished business with the 14's tune. The harness is on hold, being this fish is frying with wrapped bacon and smells easier to cook than that snake of a harness. Yesterday, I deployed a few setting to my bike, I do not think you could duplicate... Wait, let me walk that back a step. If we enter this setting, how could you not get there but view what took place in the cell settings say.

What I have done, and again, you have to recognize, I found this by accident; I cannot explain the step(s) it took getting there. All I know is a 'tone' of the bike, falls into a different tune.

That means, you can adjust the tune... Up to a point of limp say. zHurts trying to explain a phenom I cannot really get my finger on. But you can feel it, seat of the pants. Because of my background working on motorcycles on a daily basis to support myself, you pre-ride many brands of bikes. Find a lot of drive-ability problems to solve.

That kind of carb type experience helps when I ride a fuel injected bike. To me, fuel injection just runs smoother. Same low and high speed jet settings seem to match the tone settings of the a/N~D/J settings. I pull over, change this, or can toggle a setting on the fly. You have these 'tones' happening when you do this. What the heck, DFI means, 'digital fuel injection.' Buy accident, I dropped a sensor on the ground. That puppy had a crystal tone to it, as it hit the ground then gave off sound.

In a way, this is how I am trying to describe these different settings to myself. That ride yesterday, reset the bike better than the other tone. I need more time on the seat to make sure it wasn't saddle sore. The tones are so close, I am always looking for a subtle difference in tone; short of a few dyno pulls. All I have to act upon, are the changes the throttle response says on the twist open.

I am thinking of a way to video 4 tone sounds using 4 different settings. This would show how much pop on lift I have; backing off the throttle and heading downhill in some canyon. See how much I can move over to the hard side but not at full tilt 'breakout' into the, "Code" - Wink Wink! biggrin.gif

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RE: I feel like Smokey Yunick on this one...


The deeper I set myself up trying to work out this racing harness, makes me think I might upset what I am trying to not produce in the first place. Without a proper 8 point ping on the injectors, I know I am going to code the ECU and run limp on one side of the 'Method." Because the bike is going to ping 4 injectors twice or shoot 4 blanks once, then code. If tying both the a/N and D/J together, something will ping out of resistance and it might not work, set a code, shut it down and run one bank only. I think I am walking myself toward a dead end, using a 4 injector throttle body with an ECU wired for 8 injectors.
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Well, today I blew a fuel study all to heck thinking I could keep those fuel blocks from dropping on the dash. I love the hit of this hack. Though I find the stock tone and performance at the throttle to be the best O/L with a leaner and meaner set... All except the sloppy shifting in stock mode. WATT a feel now, with the subtle, harder hit this thing has when cruising in 6th gear. Did I mention the plush way it shifts moving up in gears! Data is correct toe [don't tell a lie] moon dough...

You should feel the shift quality change to this bike more than anything; equals two bumps for one hack hit. I tell ya, Kawattsocket missed some voltage to the wattage times the Ohm's Law. I amp too confused we paper/pencil logically as in math steps. I'm more wondering how much in an ohm or volt number, the factory can set this bike up the way I have it now. They really screwed up in my opinion. They need to ride this bike to convince them WATT they are missing. They sure were blind in the resistance ping of that end game.

The down side is that wallet wrinkle at the gas tank fill. This hack is helping itself to the salad bar way too many times is that free lunch you have to live with. That mellow smooth shift and a hard hitting 6th, not to mention a re-smoothing of it's running is all worth it.
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My next question or [quandary] is to ask myself what to do with my one trick pony?

Ask yourself; WATT would you do with this hack? Personally, I think a situation could wind up like a TRE elixir, as others will make product, sell it as they did with your work, RidgeRacer. So, I have this one trick pony like the TRE sitting between my legs.

Do you keep that trick just for yourself, say nothing? Sell it to the highest bidder and let them sell all they can; it works like a TRE? Give up the one trick pony is open source, it's the humanitarian thing to do; here is a freebie it is yours? You have no patent on it. Nice guys finish last, ass they say, where now everyone knows how to build one like all the other TRE(s), G-Pro, X-Tre products that basically, hard-set the ECU after all is said and done.

Well, this is all I can say about that. Think about it. I am back to the harness to work out a ping problem... "Never say die."

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RE: Hack Sea Dent


My sponsor came through with an 8 injector throttle body. I took a foot print of the t-body rather than bring the set home somehow on the bike. Looks like I'll be reworking the 14's body using 1000 t-body parts, then somehow make an 8 injector spray on a 14 t-body. A paper trace says the spread will not line up. I kind of figured the heads had to be different between bore sizes. The spread is just enough where there is a modification of hanging the secondaries over the velocity stacks, with some sort of fuel rail setup/injector tower or something?

What I also found out today is free access to a dyno. Compliments of my sponsor. He gave me the manual to the dyno to read up on. I can finally find out what makes this bike tick under a few hack settings.

This is more a hobby where I am not competing for speed. I'm looking for more mpg. That is the one setting. The next setting is the wicked response setting. Break the back wheel lose kind of touch the throttle setting.

Since finding this tone or tuned condition of the bike by accident, I've dropped that signal and have moved on tapping into another signal. This one might be difficult to hack, but I figure why not. I could choose any one sensor and it would be difficult. I have no clue watt I am doing, no electrical background, just a stab in the dark and a light came through with one. Coming home on the bike made me think of a whole new approach to use and how to chase signal pings.

That means I CAN compete on a hobby level more or less. Competition is open source. The rare are the secrets. I'm going to write 4 lines on the dyno. Base stock ~ Accident Hack ~ GPS-1w ~ GPS-2wire. I will practice 4 pulls on the dyno to view which torque line started first on the rise? WOT line signed off first and at what rpm on the torque drop? Who made overall peak torque? Who made overall peak HP?

I have a piggy on remote toggle. This Tfi will be dialed in next. I then throw the switches on the other hacks to see who compliments the tune or who throws too much jet at it. There is a sniffer, fans, air duct hoses for the exhaust. Kind of exciting to actually watch on screen what I feel under the seat whacking those hacks on the fly.

And with your software, RR, this is the only way I could set the lean signals if I'm about to have a shot at the mpg...Sans the kit-ECU. I'll also know if the hard settings are what I'm sitting on now, once I can climb inside the black box and reset some things. Add me to the waiting list, Ridge. We might be timed in buy the time I figure out that dyno in a few months time. It's full steam ahead for me. To many coals in the fire you say? Naaa. I made room for you on the plate.



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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=62B7zenFr2A

For watt it's worth, here are the breakdown seconds for this video. It is more you listen on that time for the tone change or there about = Give or take a second:

0:15 ~ You will hear 2nd gear clunk with the stock mode. Late in the video, the hack will eliminate that snatch.
2:22 ~ This the stock idle setting. String together 3 interesting idle settings later.
4:00 ~ New hack idle seems higher in rpm > String will tell at a slow-mo lop.
4:18 ~ This is where I missed 5th or 4th gear with a bang in neutral. I was not happy and cut out a lot. But notice the 3rd tone, because this is THE HIT for the rest of the vid.
5:48 ~ Here I where I need to bang a note off a wall or a 1/4th of a tunnel is more like it. Sound different?
6:13 ~ There is air sucking lift on the downhill runs. Do you hear any popping on decel?
8:04 ~ Hard Gargling is the decel, not a pop. I kill the engine so I could enter the data in any of the 3 microphones.
8:17 ~ With the Transet call it, I did not hear that tick in 2nd gear, nor feel it.

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What I need to understand is what I am doing to the bike's mapping. Without setting a code, I have gained access to a different ping setting is how I have to describe it. Without an EE showing me exactly watt occurred, I have to use my own way to explain how the change in tune occurs.

For some reason, the parts I've assembled one time, did not set the ping. I removed plenty of items off the list of parts, but without the backup of the other parts, this unit is dead in the water.

Since the sun came out for a spell, I attempted to test run with a revised unit. The unit returned the ping signal back to a better shifting transmission. Therefore, I pretty much have a bulletproof product that will not fail electrically.

I have a ping that can change the quality of the shift dramatically. I have a bonus too, where the fuel/ign trim has changed significantly. I do not know [IF] to the better? The dyno will tell soon. I have free access to a dyno. I'll be burning down the hours on a drum wheel just to learn how to operate it let alone the hours of abuse to the engine.

Therefore, I am pretty much on my own with the dyno runs. This is the next step being the product is in a slow R&D process. I rather give the trick up, not make it a business event. But without the knowledge what happened inside the ECU where say if Ridge's software can run in real time, I can view the changes, recognize what occurred, then see if I can duplicate the same effect with the software, eliminate my unit and here is the software trim setting needed to set the, Transhift.

The unit has the potential to tweak out more discretionary hacks that do not set codes. I am taking a guess they won't. Don't hold me to it. I figure if this one does not set a code, then another hack attack might expose another find. The beauty is you do not need to send your ECU to be flashed... IF.... If the unit can change the same on/off signal is to toggle on or off the soft/hard settings.

And if you kind of figured out where I am going with this, is not to compete with the flashing, but to eliminate my unit thru flashing. That is why I'd like to buy your product, Ridge. I think you can duplicate that trans ping with the software and the only way to find out is to purchase something that can peak inside the ECU and study the patterns and their next step(s).

Dyno Readings are next. It may take awhile. It may take as long as Ridge releasing product before I can make a full day or 2 of it. 24/7 caregivers have a small window of time or I'd have the dyno results tomorrow.

-- Edited by hubkup on Sunday 24th of January 2010 07:47:48 AM

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This is why I am so hesitant to pour all my money on a bunch of parts that will sit in a box. You know Ridge, you will turn the tre's obsolete. I know if you can get in that gear file, you can change to a better shifting bike, which turns my one hit wonder obsolete even before it hits said market. I am going to hold off till I find out your setup is possible to match my 'trans tune' call it.

I am no too concerned about the fuel trim and race apply any longer. I have enough bike (sorta). I am more concerned I can, [want to] get into that program, re-plot the gear maps, as I watch the hack display the numbers. Then, watch the stock map switch back > On the fly with video capturing all the numbers off the laptop. On/OFF says the wax biggrin apply.

That way, I can freeze the [stock] map numbers, revise the map to the hack, throw that in some archive; because I sure do not need it if I just explained how you can find the hack settings as base and go from there.

So Ridge, tell me you can change the gear maps as well in the beta. This is the whole reason I am enamored to warm up the kit-ECU and install it on the 14. It has the same gear map ability to shift the way I have this baby running now.

If I have that option to execute [the] software with this approach, sign me up for a beta unit, Ridge. I sure know the N-tre is obsolete if I can clean the pop. So will my "transmoothing" hack be a footnote as for my own case in point.

Here is proof to my ears, it's as simple as an on/off type of ECU tuning. Either you are in soft mode popping away, or can switch to hard mode and wheelie up the hill [practically] in 6th gear starting at 1,800 rpm [I'm kidding but not about this >]... It's, smooooooth/nasty throttle/azz rippin' crisp.

Like I've been saying, I can still hide a hack from the tech inspectors is what I have found. As long as it's kept secret, my race tuner can apply that cheat is beat you to the trophy is how racing goes. Cheating advances the sport sort of once the cat is out of the bag say...

Say this (vid) was how the privateer used to tune for racing. Now it's a dyno. Kind of a lost art is butt metering? I'm still old style tuning, old style shifting. A carb is now a wire + phantom hack. Pick a hill, you keep swapping out jets till she is was stumble free, or close enough she could grunt out of the corners. Now that the electronics change the whole tuning gig, I rather tune that transmission than the engine. With access to those maps, you can fix the way the 14 shifts. It just needs a little toe crisping is all.

Anyone for rail waxing?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cnYIRc_ru6U







-- Edited by hubkup on Thursday 11th of February 2010 07:00:32 PM

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Since I need a second tower full of injectors to run the mid to high signals, my sponsor came through with a set of 1000 throttle bodies and the secondary injector bar. I have to jerry rig the injector bar inside the ram and over the velocity stacks. I also have to rewire the harness because I need more reach going into the ram chamber from the ECU.

It's like I have to start all over again. I don't mind really. It's just what you do modding. Solve one thing after the other till the end. The gear maps are my main concern at this time. Once the bike runs with the kit-ECU I am home free.

Ridge may have product out before I am done with this headache.

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Are you just going to run the injectors in paralles off of the stock ones or are you attempting to contro them independently?

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sportbiker, I will have the injector rail inside a ZX-14 ram chamber, pointed above the velocity stacks. I will have to remove my completed wire harness because I thought I could trick the one set of injectors to backwash back into the main set of injectors.

The more I thought about it, the more I would just code the computer, shut down the mid/WOT signal to the upper fuel rail. Now that my sponsor came through with the secondary fuel rail, fuel lines, and the rest was to figure out how to run all 8 injectors was what I needed to continue to start the kit-ECU back up to where we run without codes.

Now I have to push that project off to the side and fastrack installing a few 02 exhaust bungs in a spare set of headers.



We are going to play with a little piggybacking for real, no pun intended. These are 2 Wide|Bands that are going to ride on that red camera mount bar. The bar can be removed so both cut boxes can run their 9v remote battery to the main computer. We figure a better sniffer would be to plug one in for testing purposes.

I just want to see both 02 sensors being plugged to one of the piggy boxes and the other to the dyno. This unit runs an A/F meter. If I can see the meter is on the money with the same readout of both 02's, swap the two sensor feeds so the meter reads the same on the other pipe. We have the dyno and meter matching both 02 sensors, we can cross those T's and dot the I's for a balanced reading or an average if need be.

This is where I can download a few maps and swap I don't know how many combination of maps on the fly that will stumble or match what was tuned specific to this bike on that day.

Once the pigs are in place, I can then return to the kit-ECU and get a hold of those gear maps or when Ridge has his offer for the 14's ECU. I have a gear map that could use some work. That is the reason for the kit-ECU. The pigs that are going into play now, are for the 02 sniffer numbers that if we use the muffler probe this is less accurate. Since I have spare headers just for this reason, I now shut down the pigs, then run their 02's on 2 remote ohm meters. I can see how both bank of cylinders are running, then balance those to sniff equal.

And I think with the shift balance I have now, I will lose it if I tune out the mild rip of performance I am getting from the ping of the hack. See, this is not a hack that sets a dash code like the tre. And what the tre does, this will do the same thing but more in a milder state. The transmission shift comes in and you want everything else to go back to the preset. So you start adding hack and she shuts down the trans, shuts down the smooth, rolls in the erratic, the static, and the wicked throttle apply. Niceeeee.

-- Edited by hubkup on Saturday 27th of February 2010 06:36:03 AM

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=csI4xtZD0Lg


Here I am in the cheap seats, trying to understand the ECU. I have the 02 plugged into a choice of 2 different exhausts. I have free access to a dyno for any testing I would like to play around with.

I don't know how close RidgeRacer is to the 14's ECU programming? I figure when it comes, it comes. I still have to re-fabricate the homemade wire harness to spray the secondaries inside the ram.

If RR had the mapping software for the 14, I would not need this headache I keep on heading into. I think I am shooting at darts going nowhere without access to all the soft and hard settings.

To some, maybe, the dial swinging is meaningless. I am sitting on this bike changing out tunes as I keep trying one setup after the next. You can see the 'soft' and 'hard' cuts set in.

My eye is untrained for this. So, I am schooling myself as to how I would read the needle swing. Because when I cause an effect, it shows up on the dial. I know one way is a soft combo, the other, a hard set.

Now, I could read this gauge all wrong, but it seems that accelerator pump follows the linear all the way up the WOT, keeps feeding fuel, but in a fluid, 'flush out the knock,' meaning, something like getting that much vacuum till it levels off, you feed that detonation ping... In proportion to the WOT signal, that is.

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kLfwtVZVfTU

Here is another tune study. This time, I worked my mini mic so I can know what combination of fueling I did, watching the wide band run it's numbers.

Now, what you see me doing is throwing fuel trim at a preset. That means I have to stop the bike, work my wire mods, jump back on and throttle WOT runs at it, which do not take much to return data where I can understand it.

To give you a little background, what I say in the video is not much. What I am saying in the video is that I've been tuning the 14 for awhile. In fact, just about every time out, I am doing something to the bike. If you walked my bike, you can see it just evolved into what it is. I look at it as a rolling test bed.

I went out with the old 14, locked the throttle with a wire harness I made that was too close to the bell crank of the throttle body. This sent me flying and that bike was setup almost like it is in the video. When I say you will be bit and both die is the bike and rider. You'll have fun on a really fast bike, you both trying to stay alive making her do WOT she was intended for.

Trying to figure out the video, I am more self schooling myself,  which I show you watt I have found with the surf scene. You are watching a real time discovery I can see operate. I have the 2-dimensional paper trail that run in steps. I had someone explain the theory from the very first move, wrote down each step and I was more watching something I already knew or was keen on, in an instinctive sort of way.

Butt, he never answered my question better than reading RidgeRacer's software jpg.'s say. Say the cars have the same basic software and it shows the a-N button you can click on, or say the same principal acts as what Ridge's software reads. Only this car button does the same exact thing the bike button will. I sit on the bike and run plumber cleavage runs, gathering assfactor data trying to duplicate a flash.


Flash back to the surf signature, 'Yeah?" Well, "NO." Why would I have Ridge's software in hand the same as you, we find some combination and now share it we go race? I thought the software was for, "THE RACE" and now give it UP; not PAZ YOU UP? I think you mentioned that, Ridge. Racers are like that. If you have an edge, you keep it cool. Butt I am itching to tell you about this stuff. I don't need this stuff but what can I tell you. You can't take the race out of a racer, I hold a little back.

Now we sort of segway to me riding for more hours of input, I receive my output
message is I have some bike tuned to WIN. I can tweak out a little more from this bike. But right now, the way I burned off of a fat white line I just kissed, OK, maybe I ran a little over it. This was to setup the upcoming apex, you can hear I did not roll hard out of the turn.

Take the 'rail waxing' mantra for example, I run a close line. So, with a subtle surprise, like I am not having the front end wash or the back end come around a little just about every time I take this bike out for a romp, I not only see 18 on lift, buttie give a little entertainment for the audio. I break wind sorta speak, leave some rubber on that painted line, then the road, I lift. Now, I am trying to see if that slight vibration is not from a road bump, or it is timed close enough to see; I was on that rubber band ride till the meter hums from the wheel grabbing grip again. Again, it was so smooth and linear, I could just feel that bottom end run, slow low an RPM, and pretty high in some gear, this thing runs in the soft.

I don't know if you understand where the bike's tune level is, or watt is under me now. I think with the data you did not see, but to watch 15 minutes worth of what I should be hiding, but since I no longer race, maybe you can figure out 16.5 is hard and slow. 18 had full range with the accel plunger moving to 10. WOT I need to school myself in, means that, if I get a hold of Ridge's software, can you understand I need to be set in the hard 16.5 setting butt in the soft set? Yeah?...Hard to explain... ah, No!

And when I said I was done, that was meant more for you, Ridge. That meant this was as far as I can take that bike till the kit-ECU kicks in or fire up your beta brand. The piggy is useless to me, when I am using your brand chasing fuel trims. The internals are the key to tuning this thing better than stock. You hear guys cry for a good map and I am dickisslapping them for not trying tune the bike up if they are going to try that pig tuning route. 

I'm still not there in the tune of it. Butt WATT I have under me says it at the end of the video. I think I got a little something for use'all.





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Sunday, I reconfigured the bike back to stock. That means, the throttle body down to the exhaust. I lost the wheel spinning, low rpm grunt, fat injector, no sub throttle system. What I could not do, was take the rich out of the bike. The air screws just trimmed air and did nothing as did, pulling the air cleaner with the same rich results.

The A/F scale sure is accurate when it says low rich torque @ 11:1. I could cruise heavy load there. But once on the WOT, the needle would peg more rich. So, the frustration was to pull the throttle body.

I knew the ECU still pumped out the same duty cycle. What else could it be but the injector. I guess the color difference calls the fpm. I have no clue. The point is, I know what not to use.

See, if you had that software up and running, I could slam the (-) grid blocks to refuel this like an '06 ECU. But the flashing will not get me there. Another thing; When I pulled the exhaust, I studied the exhaust port burn. I see #4 could use some work. Again, a flash will not work where I am going with the tune.

Therefore, the beta work is out in the field, guys. Get me to those 4 sequence maps, so I can trim #4 to the other 3. And no, I did not remove the PAIR out of the loop. The wide band number means nothing, I trim the engine note to the best sound. The number still is a number with or without the PAIR. Besides, some do not understand the [PAIR's] performance end rather than the emissions end game.

I am in the process of swapping out a 3rd set of injectors into the 14's throttle body. The injectors are from the same year bike brand, but a 1000 cc throttle body running 8 injectors. It so happens the primary injectors have the same body style as both Gen1 and Gen2 14's.

The following week, I expect to have the 1000cc injectors up and running. If they are smaller in jet size (fpm), then I can try to trim the pulse width without burning up a perfect set of 1000cc injectors. I hear a lot of rattle off that pintle, I'm sure it's exceeded it's duty limit.

Again, this way I know as if I am working an electric jet, I have limits at the pulse no matter the map making ability. Others can chase larger injectors needing to displace a new bore opening, turbo turning, etc. I'm just cracking how much you can get away with stock wise.

I'm going back and forth like a ping pong, waiting for the beta. I've connected enough dots to watch what the ECU does, code wise. I'm connecting dots to see what the jets I have. Turns out to be where the fuel direction is going without hacking but swapping injectors. The next move are the 8 injectors set inside the ram chamber. See if either the 1000 ECU can trim down the rich ride or the kit-ECU? I have the option to swap to a larger injector, still with the 1000 ECU and/or kit, meaning, match bore size with an injector.

I read where you said, weeks away with the beta, RR. I can fill that time in, no problem. I'll know about that 1000 injector(s) soon. What I know now, as a recap; Gen1 14 injectors used with a Gen2 ECU, runs fat rich; Cannot be leaned out even if you pull the air cleaner, run open ram, and of course, no piggy helper. Why use a piggy to make it even more rich? So, between both generation 14's, and whatever generation fpm the 1000cc bike is, the research is to lean out the 14's top end just a skosh.

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I look at what I have, I look at what Walbro has. I look at what I have, I look at what the next piggy went to market has.

Moving right along...

... We have a borrowed  ECU, coupled with a loaner '10 ECU. The '08 ECU and the '06 fuel injectors work quite well on a very rich 11:1 ratio you cannot get out of, meaning, if you try to lean her out.

An '06 ECU matched with an '08 fuel injector throttle body, will have a slight morning stumble, as in a very lean state of say, 18:1 as opposed to the stock '08 16:1 A/F ratio. There is also a low rpm stumble present which I will address later on.

There is no difference between the '08 and '10 ECU's. More data will be taken just to make sure. Both use the same part number. Both seem to ride the same at this point. More input is needed to verify.

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Real quick:

2006 injector with '08 ECU = Rich

2010 injector with '08 ECU = Lean

2009 injector with '08 ECU = Unknown

Now, without having the access or ability inside, "You are outside looking in."

Throw the beta! "While we're young, Ridge!"

(JK)

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So, Marlin, check this out. I can't tell you much about my setup, but I can tag the 4-5-6 maps. It just seems like that on/off ~ soft/hard; calms down in the 4 display, then I can feel the tone kick in on the hard as I shift up.

I'm trying to ride this [hack] and not predict that, "raggedge" hit I get at the gps signal. See, you need to be in 6th to set the hit to begin to lock the display. Yeah, the lag to 6th sometimes you see in the display, but that seems to either trigger the 4th back in or I'm degrading the ECU, which I doubt.

There has been something new added recently as a test. It's not too conclusive at this short loop, but I do see something in the shift display where 4th and 5th pop up, and then 4th kicks back in; for 4th gear map.

You might say, and I can't say for sure, but if I walk the shift, it is in the 'feel(s)-tone(d)' of that digital. Say, s for soft and h for hard. The pattern tone-rings; s-N-s-s-s-h-h, if that is possible?

The idea to try this variable was like any other "fluke." It was just another hackseadent try and oh, my-my. Not the best combination for hard all up and down being the better choice, but that is what I see and sort of feel without really taking that bike out and flogging it someplace.



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Well, I did find myself curious about that latest hack. Come to find out the hack is set no matter what so that solves that answer. However, once it shorted, the shop manual points the way. Basically you went nowhere.

My hack also found out a way to loophole using a protre with the display. Yes, the fluke sea dent was that I only noticed 4-5-6. I have them all with the gps hack. Shebootie!

I am very close to experimenting with zx-10 injectors. I'll see what occurs A/Fratio wise. The '06 are just too rich on an '08. Both [14's] have different color bodies and that should give away a clue.

-- Edited by hubkup on Monday 10th of January 2011 11:57:39 PM

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