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Post Info TOPIC: Nitrouscontrol module for gen2


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RE: Nitrouscontrol module for gen2


Is the pair valve wiring sending a ground output signal to trigger the solenoid?

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Yep

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soooo, i know its not meant to do this but couldn't i change the settings for the nitrous activation to use this for autoshift? just put the rpm i wanna shift at in the box for the minimum and maximum activation rpm?

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Petrik , Tested on road , I was concerned about the hard hit on dyno when in a specific gear but when you are running on the road with the Nitrous coming in progressively in each gear the bike is very smooth - even with no ramp up.The hit is hard when you are running in a higher gear and then hit the "Go Faster Button".With 40Hp got the bike to run 285 Kmh on 800 meters measured with Racelogic Box.
Still cant get the grin off my face.

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Greg
My RH thumb is now DEAD , to me it is extremely awkward to push the UP mode button with WOT. Had my bike configured to activate old Nos system on "pass" button. Would like to move it back there , is the signal going back to ECU on Orange wire + or - 12 v ?

-- Edited by LenTurbo on Tuesday 23rd of March 2010 11:46:59 AM

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ButchB wrote:

soooo, i know its not meant to do this but couldn't i change the settings for the nitrous activation to use this for autoshift? just put the rpm i wanna shift at in the box for the minimum and maximum activation rpm?



in theory yes, in application not 100% sure, 1 way to find out ;)  I can hook you up with a pair connector if you want one to try and wire to a relay and see if it works.

 



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LenTurbo wrote:

Greg
My RH thumb is now DEAD , to me it is extremely awkward to push the UP mode button with WOT. Had my bike configured to activate old Nos system on "pass" button. Would like to move it back there , is the signal going back to ECU on Orange wire + or - 12 v ?

-- Edited by LenTurbo on Tuesday 23rd of March 2010 11:46:59 AM




Hi Len...."PLEASE" let Me know if you get this to work? As this is EXACTLY where I have always wanted My Activation Button at as well. smile

Thanks



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either rewire the flash to pass to be ground instead of +12 volts, or run it to a relay to reverse polarity, but be careful if turning your brights on LOL

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smithabusa wrote:

either rewire the flash to pass to be ground instead of +12 volts, or run it to a relay to reverse polarity, but be careful if turning your brights on LOL




Greg, after we ran the Flash to pass to a Relay to Reverse Polarity, would we then Tie/loop this into the Toggle Switch on your New Harness?



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tie it to pin 37 which is the mode UP button.  BUT, pretty sure if you just tap a relay into whats there now, turning your high beams on the normal way would also arm nitrous.

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We could move the button to the lower DSM button - would that help ?


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If you do that could you make it either?



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Sure its doable - just a bit more work, but that will not move it to left thumb- still using the throttle arm.



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PetriK wrote:


We could move the button to the lower DSM button - would that help ?




YES! I Personally think that would be a 100% better. smile With it being on the Bottom, its a lot more Natrual Postion(as your wacking the Throttle "open" it would be easier for your thumb to press the down Button).

Thank you Petrik wink



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I keep forgetting to ask this question.

If you get out of the throttle or release Mode button while already progressing nitrous, what happens when you return.

Scenario:
3rd gear you are already 1 second into the ramp up time and bike wheelies, you let off the throttle and then get back into the throttle.  Do you pick up at Nitrous duty cycle you left off at 1 second in, or do you start back over from the beginning of the 3rd gear setpoint? 

Thanks,

Greg


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"If you get out of the throttle or release Mode button while already progressing nitrous, what happens when you return."

Ramp up for that gear should start again. Going below any threshold should reset the rampup. Tested this on the desktop, but obviously not tested in real world.

Here is what the logic looks like on top level, very simple ... 

if (((DSMbuttonpressed) || (buttonactive != 0xFF)) && (ECU_RPM > minrpm) && (ECU_RPM < maxrpm) && (ECU_TPS > mintps))
{
if (switchover < rpg)
{
// switchoverincrease happens with dcounter as that is the ms value that every running loop makes
switchover = switchover + (dcounter / rampupdivisor);
}
else
{
switchover = rpg; }
}
else
{
switchover = 0;
}
..........
   transition = (100 * switchover) / rpg;
   if (transition > 100) transition=100;
   if (transition < 0) transition=0;
   duty =      (((100 - transition) * dutygear1 * dcounter)/10000) + ((transition * dutygear2 * dcounter)/10000);
   fueladd =   (((100 - transition) * fueladdgear1)/100) + ((transition * fueladdgear2)/100);
   ignretard = (((100 - transition) * ignretardgear1)/100) + ((transition * ignretardgear2)/100);


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excellent thanks :)

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PetriK wrote:

We could move the button to the lower DSM button - would that help ?




Petrik, is this something you Might incorporate on the next update? biggrin



-- Edited by ToXSicK RoCKeT on Wednesday 24th of March 2010 02:12:22 AM

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smithabusa wrote:

 

ButchB wrote:

soooo, i know its not meant to do this but couldn't i change the settings for the nitrous activation to use this for autoshift? just put the rpm i wanna shift at in the box for the minimum and maximum activation rpm?



in theory yes, in application not 100% sure, 1 way to find out ;)  I can hook you up with a pair connector if you want one to try and wire to a relay and see if it works.

 

 




Yeah I definitely wanna try it. Right now I have the resistor in my pair valve connector. Shouldn't it work if I remove the resistor, disable pair valve in ecueditor, set the nitrous control up for the rpm i want it to shift at, then just get my negative shift trigger from the pair valve harness? Which color is the ground trigger in the pair valve harness? Are you saying the ecu doesn't have enough amperage on that output to activate the shifter, and thats what I need the relay for? Sorry for all the questions, just really wanna give this a try and get it working!



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yep yep, i would do a relay to be safe, hate to burn the pair circuit on your ecu just to save a couple dollars on a relay

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I wired it up tonight but haven't tried it yet. I have a couple questions:

I left the pair resistor in place, was this correct?

I used the grey pair wire for the ground shift signal, this is the right one correct? I wired it to a relay to up the amperage. I left it connected to the resistor also.

In the nitrous control settings I,
set the nitrous on and off both at the rpm i want the bike to shift at.
set the duty cycle to 100 % every gear
set all the other boxes (fuel add, ign retard, ramp up) all at 0
set the activation type to rpm/tps only
Does all this sound correct?

I noticed after I set the settings up in the nitrous control screen and then cloe it and open back up, the activation type always changes from rpm/tps only to rpm only. Is this ok, why is it changing?

One more question, what is ICS on/off do?

Thanks, hopefully i'll know for sure it works tomorrow and we'll also have autoshift!


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You may have older version, 2.2 should be it for nitrous testing.

Greg will propably comment on other questions.



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I left the pair resistor in place, was this correct?
    No it should be removed.

I used the grey pair wire for the ground shift signal, this is the right one correct? I wired it to a relay to up the amperage. I left it connected to the resistor also.
    Remove resistor.

In the nitrous control settings I,
set the nitrous on and off both at the rpm i want the bike to shift at.
set the duty cycle to 100 % every gear
set all the other boxes (fuel add, ign retard, ramp up) all at 0
set the activation type to rpm/tps only
Does all this sound correct?
     No, the on and off rpm set the same isn't going to work, set ON
     rpm   where you want it to shift at, and off rpm something higher,  
     like 500 rpm higher.

One more question, what is ICS on/off do?
      idle control solenoid, I dont think turning it off works 100% though.



 



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Using nitrouscontrol for autoshuft...

I tried it this weekend and it didn't work. I have a couple questions that may answer why though.

In the advanced settings screen, does pair need to be on or off? i had it set to off.

In the nitrous control screen under activation type, I choose rpm/tps only. Using this setting, would I need to ground the pin 37 orange w/blue wire? I didn't have this done.

thanks

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pair should be off

under that activation setting no button is needed

post screen shot of your nos screen, did it do anything?

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not sure how to post a screenshot? in the nitrous screen, i have the following settings:
nitrous on 11000
nitrous off 11500

activation type is rpm/tps only

nitrous duty cycle 100% every gear
0's in all other boxes

on the wiring side, i used the grey wire from the pair connector and ran it to pin 85 on my relay.
pin 86 to 12v switched
pin 30 to ground
pin 87 to shift ground trigger coming from horn



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sounds about correct to me, how far on the tach where you revving out?  11000 actual RPM is close to 12000 rpm on the tach, i would suggest for testing bringing that rpm way down, like 7000 or something

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oh didn't realize tach was off that far. i'm gonna lower it down and give it another try.

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Base-engine 203hp
2x28 jets, +25% fuel 250hp, no changes to injectorbalance
(Stock engine in same dyno around 184hp, piped around 193hp)

nitrous250hp.jpg

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very nice! have they played with smaller than 100% duty cycle or ramps at all?

Also, I presume this is with a non-stock fuel pump correct?

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Bosch fuelpump

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I just tried it again and it is killing the engine but its killing it before the bike shifts. I'm guessing I need to change the activation from 5 to like 15? Wouldn't that give a little delay before it kills the engine?

Also, i'm getting code c40. Any idea whats causing that?

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ButchB wrote:

I just tried it again and it is killing the engine but its killing it before the bike shifts. I'm guessing I need to change the activation from 5 to like 15? Wouldn't that give a little delay before it kills the engine?

Also, i'm getting code c40. Any idea whats causing that?



You could try the activation setting possible, not sure you are the guiny pig LOL.

service manual says C40 the isc idle speed control circuit, does it only come on when you autoshift?  have you been playing with the isc setting in ecu editor?

 



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yeah i'm reflashing it now to change the activation from 5 to 15 and see if that helps any.

its threw the code every time i've rode it just been forgetting to ask what it was and how to fix it. it was doing it before i tried the autoshft. bike is pretty much all stock though and haven't messed with any settings or the throttle bodies at all. i'm gonna try turning it off in ecueditor and go ride it again.

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I just tried it a few more times. I changed the activation from 5 to 15, no difference. I changedthe kill time from 50ms to 100ms, no difference. Not sure what else to try. The bike kills the engine fine at the rpm, just doesn't shift or eve try to. I'm gonna doublecheck my relay wiring next.

On the ISC code. Its still throwing it. I turned it off in ecueditor but that didn'tmake any difference. What else could it be? It seems like it only comes on when the bike is decellerating. Any ideas on this?

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PetriK wrote:

Bosch fuelpump




is this the bosch957 or something else i need to buy one can you give me some info

Petrik?



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LIFE IS SHORT RIDE HARD



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Here is the story for fuelpump upgrade.

[url]http://www.suzukihayabusa.org/forum/index.php?topic=144442.0[/url]



-- Edited by PetriK on Thursday 1st of April 2010 12:15:19 AM

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PetriK wrote:

Base-engine 203hp
2x28 jets, +25% fuel 250hp, no changes to injectorbalance
(Stock engine in same dyno around 184hp, piped around 193hp)

nitrous250hp.jpg




WOW!! Very Nice Numbers!! wink What I like even More is how SMOOTH everything is....look at the AFR, thats just Perfect!! ECU is Deff controlling GREAT!

Nice work as ALWAYS Petrik. smile



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whats your status toxsick?

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smithabusa wrote:

whats your status toxsick?




All has Been working Great!! I have only put 2 Bottles through it But with 0 Problems!! My current set up is Gixx1300R Spraybar, Nitrous Regulated down to 550psi with a .053 Jet. 20% Fuel increase and it Hits Nice & Hard! biggrin Wego3 is Logging 11.8/12.2:1 AFR.

Have not had it to the Dyno or Track yet though, only have the Seat of My Arse O Meter. Been testing in 4th & 5th Gear.....

Only Problem I have is Button Location....Very Hard to Reach Button when I Pin the Throttle.... I have to Re-Grip to Reach the Top DSM Button. Tried going through the Motions on a Launch and don't feel comfortable yet at getting to the Button.

All n All.....Works GREAT!! Thanks again Petrik and to You Greg for the Hardware. smile



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could you supply some pics and or datalogs etc?  I didn't even know you were up and running.  Just wire a toggle switch from battery ground to pin 37, then the toggle becomes your up mode button, no more sore thumb.

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I will look into button soon.



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I dont have the bike at home to test the buttons.

version 2.2.0.11 has button selectable, but I am thinking that I may remember the upper and lower button signals wrong way round. So anyone having the bike at hand could test this.

Please remember that reactivating the nitrous control module (which is needed) also removes the old nitrous control settings - so you need to retype those if youre using nitrouscontrolmodule.



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Petrik.......THANK YOU!!! smile I will test this out as soon as I get off work today! AWESOME! wink

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smithabusa wrote:

could you supply some pics and or datalogs etc?  I didn't even know you were up and running.  Just wire a toggle switch from battery ground to pin 37, then the toggle becomes your up mode button, no more sore thumb.




Absolutely!! whats your email Greg and I will send them when I get home tonight.



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greg (at) boostbysmith.com

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If I try testing the nitrous control output with the bike in the shop, not running. It is pulsing the solenoid even though I have the nitrous duty cycle set to 100%. Is this correct? To test, I am just turning the key on, putting the bike in gear, opening throttle wide open and holding the up mode button.

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100% should just turn it on and leave it on til you release the button.
kickstand is up i assume?

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yeah kickstand is up, but it pulses. 5th and 6th gear are on/off by throttle, all other gears pulse.

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I just doublechecked everything. Flashed it again with 100% nitrous duty cycle in every gear. flashed it, then done verify ecu to make sure it flashed ok. Put ecu on the bike and it pulses every gear but 5th and 6th.

Another thing I keep noticing is if i set my kill time to anything other than 80, when i go back in and verify ecu, it changes it back to 80. any ideas on that?

Also, when i go back in after verifying, in my nitrous control it always changes from rpm/tps only to rpm only. but rpm only isn't even an option to choose when you initially set it up. ??

-- Edited by ButchB on Thursday 1st of April 2010 10:05:23 PM

-- Edited by ButchB on Thursday 1st of April 2010 10:05:50 PM

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