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Post Info TOPIC: Gen2 ECU conversion for a GEN1 for use in a Prostreet Bike


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RE: Gen2 ECU conversion for a GEN1 for use in a Prostreet Bike


Congrats John,
i'll bet you were happy after putting in all the hours sorting it out :)

Just when i thought i was all ready to put a 07 gix harness on mine i found a 09 busa ecu at a reasonable price and i already have a 06 gix harness modified to plug into the current sensors.
Roadbike gen 2 may loose its ecu for a while untill the other one arrives as i sort this out

hope to be following your steps soon


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Well done - a true pioneer !!!



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Temporarily not running again....Cam position code is now being set. No mechanical changes were made to the engine.

It is likely a minor wiring issue. I need to clean up my temporary wiring harness. Getting anxious to get it working caused me to take a few too many shortcuts.



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After getting teh scope to work and gettign somewhat of a decent signal, the cam timing is in fact an issue. I will be installing an offset pin. The trailing edge of the Cam signal is falling at ~ the end of pulse 25 of the 48 pulse cycle, when per PetriK's other posts, it seems that it must fall before the start of pulse 25

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stocker wrote:

swap covers, and use a brocks offset pin, depending on the timing....




 smile......what timing are going to try....?



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It looks like the pin woudl be in the incorrect place unless the cam was timed at ~98-100 lobe center.

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Would removing a different pin from the gen 1 rotor improve the window for the cam event ?



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Maj750 wrote:

Would removing a different pin from the gen 1 rotor improve the window for the cam event ?




 I thought about moving the rotor or moving the crank sensor, but I thoought that may mess up the relation to teh missing tooth (teeth) with TDC and may require ignition timing adjustment. Not that that would be a problem since this could be a ground up tune, but since the timing curve will likley be able to be almost identical to teh GEN2 for this, I opted for moving the cam pin.  There is by the way an offset crank rotor keyway available from Factorypro.com for a few degrees change, but I have no experience with it adn what other items it may influence.

I think (with pretty much zero basis) that the ignition event timing is based on the tooth count and the cam trigger just lets the computer know what part of the cycle #1 cylinger is on so that the ignition doesn't fire 180° out of time.



-- Edited by sportbikeryder on Monday 31st of January 2011 09:58:22 PM

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PetriK wrote:


You may try this... STP_config_flag_0x80_unk_7000A. I.e. on the bottom of advanced settings screen when you enlarge the bottom a bit you can see a direct memory write byte feature. Type &H7000A as the address and you should see &H80 on the right hand side. Now put &H0 to the right hand side and press write. Alteranatively you can try &HFF value. To me this disables the target opening, but I am unsure if it removes either STP sensor or STVA errors.



I re-flashed, trying both the &H0 and the &HFF values, but this did not remove the error code (s). I don't think it is really a problem to have these codes in the ecu, although I was not able to start the bike last night to test the new cam pin.

For some reason I have lost the cam sensor signal on the scope, but there is no trouble code present. No attempt for the bike to fire at all. I will hopefully get a chance to go back out this evening to investigate adn look at the data stream to ensure there is a Pulsewidth call for the injectors, etc, while cranking.

In other "news" I believe I my have killed my Lithium Ferrous battery simply from storage in cold weather (not trying to use it when cold). I normally bring it inside the house at night after testing, but left it our the other night. I brought it back inside to warm and when brought out to the garage the next day, it seems to be cooked. Very little power in the battery and will not take a charge. Up until this point, I was very impressed with the battery, however, it seems they are not cold friendly at all. It was very cold (~5 degrees F). Perhaps a solder joint broke from contraction due to the cold, who knows. Quite pricey to buy one only to last 8 months or so though. I have contacted the vendor to see if there is any insight into a way to revive.

 



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Got the bike running (with a different battery). The cam trigger is now acceptable in relation to the crank with the offset cam pin.


I have noticed that the bike will not start if I have the scope attached to the crank sensor. This is not a real issue, just a note for others trying to measure. This is a Hantek DSO-2090 usb scope.

The fault codes relating to the missing STPS and STVA are still active, but the bike starts and runs.

The engine is experiencing some back firing through the throttlebodies. It seems to be fairly consistent rather than random. At this time I really don't have any hypothesis as to what the issue may be. It seems that it may be something to do with ignition timing, since they are consistent.

Any input on the intake backfiring is appreciated. While this may be a stretch, any info relating to operating a gen2 without the STPS and STVA connected with sucess would allow likely elimination of anything relating to the STVA.

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I'm not going to be a huge help but there is an electronic stva eliminator available for gixxers , that will remove your fault codes if there annoying you .


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Good progress. With USB scope the engine rans nicely with the scope attached.

Have you triple checked that which degrees the cams are dialled ?

Coil cables are surely in right places ? Sometimes its easy to swap the 3/4 cables and have a badly running engine with some backfiring.

Does removing one injector at a time help with backfiring ?

Does removing one coil at a time help with backfiring ?

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I will check the individual coil / injector removal. I am not sure what your thoughts are on the removal, but I will give it a shot. I should mention that the backfiring is a small "putt putt" type and is sequential and not just happening on one or 2 cylinders.

Cam timing is the same as I have been running all year as I have not removed the engine. Good enough for 144+ mph in the 1/8th mile and 183mph at the 1/4 (in fifth gear!)

I will also double check that the coils are correct. In my dissection of a stock gen2 harness, there is a possibility that an injector or coil are wired incorrectly. I may remove one at a time and look for the fault code to ensure the injectors are correct.


The scope reading as posted above appears to be acceptable to me as compared to other images posted of the Kawi project.

-- Edited by sportbikeryder on Sunday 13th of February 2011 03:35:49 PM

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When removing one coil / injector at a time, do put special attention that all cylinders drop equal amount of rpm. If there is no RPM drop then there is cylinder specific problem.

It would be good to compare to a stock gen2 engine if the TDC is at the same toothcount on crankshaft wheel. Its possible that they have changed offset. In kawi project we needed to do this, but unfortunately no notes as it was done with a direct comparison to gen2 engine.



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The crank rotor offset is a good point which I have overlooked. It is not grossly different, however, even something like 5-10 degrees woudl be huge as far as timing events.

A few ways to find a solution may be to:

-Replace the rotor and stator with a Gen2
-Investigate moving the crank trigger location in the stator housing
-Install an offset woodruff key
-Modify the ignition advance by about 5-8 degrees less advance in the ecu across the board to see if it stops backfiring.

I will try the software approach first. Then likely figure out a way to measure with a timing light to see where the ignition events are actually occurring.

Does anyone have data for the timing as "programming" in the .bin vs the actual amount of advance as measured?


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The ecueditor.com degrees should be very close to actual.

It should be fairly easy to turn the engine to TDC and take a picture of the rotor - and ask someone with gen2 on the table. Stator alone is not enough its also the cam. I recall Brock saying that the gen1 to gen2 cam offset is something like 7 degrees, therefore its possible that the rotor is also off by 7 degrees or so.






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Good idea I will get a picture.

I have noticed that the ignition timing for the neutral map is extremely advanced in many places as compared to the gear maps. All running of the engine so far has been in neutral. I will try other options as well.

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I removed each of the coils and injectors individually and they all cause the same change in the engine.

Image below shows crank rotor position at TDC. This is the GEN1 "converted" rotor, which used to be 24-1 and now has a tooth removed to make it 24-2. Note that the original missing tooth lines up with the engine case centerline.



Since there are 24 teeth on the rotor, the tooth interval is 360/24 = 15 degrees per tooth. Assuming that the GEN2 has the center of the missing tooth area aligned with the case centerline, this would make my modified rotor 15/2=7.5 degrees off. (perhaps this is the derrivation of the ~7degrees as mentioned in relation to the Brocks cam offset. That said, the crank should be double that of the cam due to teh 2/1 drive for a 4 stroke...perhaps I am 15 degrees off on the crank)

Now for the interesting part. Assuming the GEN2 is centered and since the rotor is a tapered fit on the crankshaft, the woodruff key in it is really only used for initial alignment of the rotor to the crank and not really to prevent rotation once installed. I removed the rotor and key and clocked it so that the center of the missing tooth area was at the case parting line and reinstalled the rotor (without the key).

After putting it all back together, the bike did start right up. That said, the backfiring through the TB's stil exists and appears unchanged. 

I will try to get a scope reading of the bike in the current, clocked configuration to see how the timing is in relation to the cam pulse. I assume it will be moved ~half of a "tooth" on the crank trigger.


If anyone has the opportunity to check the crank trigger missing tooth location in relation to #1 TDC, and can post, I would appreciate it.

John

-- Edited by sportbikeryder on Sunday 13th of February 2011 08:16:45 PM

-- Edited by sportbikeryder on Sunday 13th of February 2011 08:26:29 PM

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Have you measured the cam pin distance to sensor. On brocks site there is very precise instructions about the distance to avoid missing tooth.

We will figure this out - as there is no FI light then its something to do with cam/crank timing or something mechanical.

The falling edge of cam pulse must come before falling edge of the first pulse, which seems to be there - so its not really the cam timing in relation to crank. The crank pulse seems to be right way round so its not that either (assuming that the scope was connected right way round to the terminals.







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The crank trigger wires are crossed at the connector, swapping them to make the colors aligned gives the opposite trace on the scope. I will go and try to get a new scope reading with the current, offset rotor configuration.

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Scope reading with the offset crank rotor is shown below. Scope is connected to the green wire on teh ECU side, which is the blue on the pickup side.

Backfiring only occurs at very low throttle opening percentages. During the last test, I have noticed ~50% of my header bolts for the turbo header are laying on the floor. Seems all of this running of the bike in neutral is harder on the bolts than running full power at the track.
This could be the course of the backfiring due to exahust air entering into the header connection. I will still need to investigate the proper location of the crank rotor at TDC. 



-- Edited by sportbikeryder on Sunday 13th of February 2011 09:41:05 PM

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The signal looks good, but how do you know if your raising edge on crank signal really is raising edge. Have you measured which wire gives the ground reference ?



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Exhaust fasteners are now re-installed. No change. Backfiring only occurs below ~2600rpm. Engine runs very clean above 2600 rpm. Engine starting is much quicker with the offset crank rotor as compared with the previous setting. The signal now seems to be very similar to the stock GEN2 signals posted by PetriK on the Kawi project, although I do not have info as to where the actual TDC of GEN2 should be in relation to the signal. Determining relation of TDC to the crank signal should be very beneficial in the future, as it should allow at least a rough method of measuring spark advance. One channel of the scope connected to the crank trigger and one channel to the primary ignition signal. The two can be compared to determine when the firing occurs. This has been in the back of my mind all along, mostly to verify timing, but also to experiment with dwell settings and see how they impact the spark timing in relation to the crank trigger. I will look into the the crank sensor. I have not measured which side is ground. As a side note, this bike was originally a 2001. When I switched to an 02+ ECU previously, I did NOT switch the polarity of the crank sensor. I also did not measure the crank signal with a scope prior to converting to GEN2. No real conclusion to be drawn, just a bit of documentation.



-- Edited by sportbikeryder on Saturday 21st of January 2012 03:51:12 AM

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Performed a compression check and all is as it was last year when I built the motor (which is impressive since I made over 100 dyno pulls and many track passes, many over 450 HP).

Tried making the neutral ignition map the same as the gear map. No change
Removed more timing out of the neutral map (total of 8-10 degrees advance in in the areas below 3200 RPM). No change
Put the bike in gear and disconnected the clutch switch jumper, Datastream shows that it was no longer in neutral. No change.

I did a datalog with Justins portion of the software, but I need to look into it more to see where (if) it saved it.

I will have to call it a day and think about this a bit more over a few pieces of pizza.


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Sometimes taking your mind off of the problem seems to be the way to go (and maybe a few slices of Pizza didn't hurt either).

In assuming that the backfiring issues were related to the ecu swap itself, I neglected to check the fueling of the bike in the areas that were running poorly. Sure enough, 17:1 afr in the areas where it was backfiring. After adding fuel in the IAP map, the bike is running very cleanly and starts very quickly.

Somehow my wife just doesn't seem to understand why I became so happy when I finished my Pizza and looked at her with a smile on my face saying that it might be a lean induced backfire as headed for the door....



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sportbikeryder wrote:

Sometimes taking your mind off of the problem seems to be the way to go (and maybe a few slices of Pizza didn't hurt either).

In assuming that the backfiring issues were related to the ecu swap itself, I neglected to check the fueling of the bike in the areas that were running poorly. Sure enough, 17:1 afr in the areas where it was backfiring. After adding fuel in the IAP map, the bike is running very cleanly and starts very quickly.

Somehow my wife just doesn't seem to understand why I became so happy when I finished my Pizza and looked at her with a smile on my face saying that it might be a lean induced backfire as headed for the door....



lol......Good Deal John! smile Glad you got the Problem(s) Figured out bro.......See, Wives Really Can Serve a Purpose. lol J/King wink

 



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Would have not guessed... well done !

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Just got this from George...

Cam Pin Positions
Gen 1 Busa 105 deg 61 deg ABDC
Gen 2 Busa 105 deg 42 deg ABDC
05 GSXR 1000 102 deg 52 deg ABDC
08 GSXR 1000 102.5 deg 72 deg ABDC

so it looks like 9.5 degrees difference


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PetriK wrote:

Just got this from George...

Cam Pin Positions
Gen 1 Busa 105 deg 61 deg ABDC
Gen 2 Busa 105 deg 42 deg ABDC
05 GSXR 1000 102 deg 52 deg ABDC
08 GSXR 1000 102.5 deg 72 deg ABDC

so it looks like 9.5 degrees difference



say for gen one does this mean with the cam degreed in at 105 deg lobe center the cam pin hits the sensor at 61 deg ABDC?
I have a 06 turbo gsxr 1000 with a velocity stage 2 kit with microtech secondary control box and secondary injectors in the plenum.
I was thinking of trying to put a gen 2 busa ecu in it and getting rid of the microtech and secondary fuel injectors.  Then either run one big set of injectors or stock lower injectors and some biger injectors in the top set.  bike makes 424hp at 24psi and runs up to 29psi.
Can you make adjustments in the software for the different cam pin or do you need a cam pin offset?

thank you
jeremy

 



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badass1000 wrote:

 

PetriK wrote:

Just got this from George...

Cam Pin Positions
Gen 1 Busa 105 deg 61 deg ABDC
Gen 2 Busa 105 deg 42 deg ABDC
05 GSXR 1000 102 deg 52 deg ABDC
08 GSXR 1000 102.5 deg 72 deg ABDC

so it looks like 9.5 degrees difference



say for gen one does this mean with the cam degreed in at 105 deg lobe center the cam pin hits the sensor at 61 deg ABDC?
I have a 06 turbo gsxr 1000 with a velocity stage 2 kit with microtech secondary control box and secondary injectors in the plenum.
I was thinking of trying to put a gen 2 busa ecu in it and getting rid of the microtech and secondary fuel injectors.  Then either run one big set of injectors or stock lower injectors and some biger injectors in the top set.  bike makes 424hp at 24psi and runs up to 29psi.
Can you make adjustments in the software for the different cam pin or do you need a cam pin offset?

thank you
jeremy

 

 



Changes need to be made mechanically. No software provision to modify the signals.

 



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PetriK wrote:

Just got this from George...

Cam Pin Positions
Gen 1 Busa 105 deg 61 deg ABDC
Gen 2 Busa 105 deg 42 deg ABDC
05 GSXR 1000 102 deg 52 deg ABDC
08 GSXR 1000 102.5 deg 72 deg ABDC

so it looks like 9.5 degrees difference




PetriK, the 9.5 degrees would be camshaft degrees. The crankshaft woudl be the full 19 degrees different. That said, this may be an arbitrary number since the cam position sensor and its mounting may be different in a GEN2 vs Gen1. I can look at the valve covers to see how different they look.

Do you have any idea how this was measured? I assume it with a degree wheel and a scope or volt meter to see where the trigger edge starts.

 



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  I measured the pin position with a degree wheel and a sight window I made with cross hairs in the middle.  I removed the cam position sensor and put my sight window in its place . Those numbers are crank degrees when the cam pin would be in dead center of the sensor,  I know it is not exact, but I was interested in finding out how far Suzuki moved the pin to interupt ignition timing

   George

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Good info, Thanks George!

Now, the next question is, Does the cam pin trigger the start of the counting for the ignition events, or does the cam pin simply tell the ecu which part of the cycle the bike is on and the restart of the crank trigger, after the missing tooth portion, actually define where the timing begins?

This may be common knowledge in the ecu "world". I will have to check into it. My thoughts would be that the ignition timing woudl be triggered solely by the crank, and the cam woudl be used only to identify what part of the cycle.

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   I believe that it is there just to tell the ECU where the crank is,  once the engine is running you can disconnect the sensor and the engine will run properly, but if the sensor gives a bad signal the engine will run badly,  It seems as if there is a window that the ECU is looking for the signal,  I know on a GSXR1000 that you can not put a 07-08 cam in a 05-06 engine the revs hit about 4800 and the engine wont rev any higher unless you unplug the sensor after start up,  But if you put a 05-06 cam in a 07-08 engine it runs perfectly.

   George

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Red Racer 1 wrote:

I believe that it is there just to tell the ECU where the crank is,  once the engine is running you can disconnect the sensor and the engine will run properly, but if the sensor gives a bad signal the engine will run badly,  It seems as if there is a window that the ECU is looking for the signal,  I know on a GSXR1000 that you can not put a 07-08 cam in a 05-06 engine the revs hit about 4800 and the engine wont rev any higher unless you unplug the sensor after start up,  But if you put a 05-06 cam in a 07-08 engine it runs perfectly.

George




Good point. I forgot that removing the cem sensor after the initial sync still allows the engine to run.


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Greg (oz_booster) has sent some images of the GEN2 rotor position at TDC. From these pictures, it appears that the GEN1 and GEN2 may be clocked the same and no adjustment to the clocking may be required. There may be a few degrees difference, maybe not. That said, I did not use a piston stop to determine my TDC on my bike and it could be off a few degrees.

Either way, it appears that the rotor will function in the stock location. If it is off a few degrees, the actual ignition advance may not be completely accurate, but should still be functional overall.





-- Edited by sportbikeryder on Thursday 17th of February 2011 12:52:02 AM

-- Edited by sportbikeryder on Thursday 17th of February 2011 12:56:57 AM

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In trying to eliminate teh STVA and STPS error codes, I have reprogrammed the STVA to always be @ 100% opening.

Has anyone tested the values and have the resistance value of the STPS @ 100% opening?

Plan is to install a resistor equal to the value of the STPS at the programmed opening. Then work on simulating the STVA stepper coils, likely with a pair of 6.5 ohm resistors.

The STPS I am sure will work, the STVA, I am not so sure.

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Looks like the gsxr guys have made a circuit to eliminate the codes for the STVA...
http://www.gixxer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=198181&highlight=stva


This is quite a complex solution to the STVA code issue and I will likely just live with the code. Alternatively, I will try the reprogramming to 100% adn using a resistor in the STPS as mentioned above, however, the link mentiones a start-up sweep that the ECU checks for.

John


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Got the bike on the dyno yesterday. Tuned the bike with the turbo disconnected and it made a whopping 107 rwhp!

Hooked up the Up-pipe and ran it on spring pressure (~ 9-10psi) and it made 262HP.

It is amazing how restrictive the turbo is.

I made it to 361 rwhp on it and noticed it started to act erractically to tuning changes. I re-did a baseline pull and it only made ~ 230HP on spring pressure. I let it cool down for a bit and made another pull on spring pressure and.....the turbo fell off.

Yup, header broke off just above the flange and the turbo fell off. Likely explains the power drop off.

In all fairness, it was not a new header, and I did have it very hot eariler doing some steady state pulls with what may have been too far advanced timing (need to put a timing light on to measure as compared to what is in the ECU, which I had locked at 30 degree advance). The header and part of the turbo was glowing red, albeit in a fairly dark room. I have a picture from a cell phone, although I think it looks MUCH hotter in the picture then it really was, due to the lighting and apparently the camera may have picked up some of teh IR radiation as well. Nonetheless, a cool picture!


I have some details and also some comments and thought on improving the datalogging functions as well that I will post later. Overall, the software works fairly well. Bike starts and idles fine on 1000CC injectors (at 43psi base...impressive).

....How come no one ever said, "Hey John, be careful, your turbo might fall off...."?



-- Edited by sportbikeryder on Wednesday 20th of April 2011 01:26:52 AM



-- Edited by sportbikeryder on Wednesday 20th of April 2011 01:28:55 AM

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She got a lil hot...


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john, what was the a/f during the dyno sessions...?...did you see any fluctuations...just wondering. I just picked up turbonetics to sponser my bike...i have been very busy the last 2 months....smile....and what type of enrichment algrothim were you using...percent to.....?



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i forgot to mention, thanks for sticking the conversion out, your efforts will help others in their conversions in the future..wink



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I was using the percentage of tps. I really didnt get to tune a whole lot. Had a few delays over the weekend while working on the bike (argon ran out while making the subframe, power went out due to a storm on Saturday night, had the power and ground swapped on teh 3 bar map sensor and took a few hours to track it down,  Got a late start leaving to go to the shop on Friday, had issues witht eh battery I had to run the bike and had to extend the wires and run the bike off os a stationary battery sitting beside teh dyno, etc)

 

Interesting thing is that the bike gave a cam sensor error when the map sensor was wired incorrectly. That really thres me off as I took out the scope to try to diagnose it. Sent quite some time on it before determining it was a vltage fault somewhere else. Began ringing the wire harness to see if there was a broken wire and finally tracked it down to a mis-wired map sensor. The sensor was drawing the voltage doen on teh 5V bus to ~2.6 volts. This caused the cam sensor to not read. I am sure other sensors were not reading, but the cam sensor was the driver during cranking to set a fault.

 

Everything seemed to work on witht eh modified gen1 crank rotos and Brocke offset cam pin. I thikn I will modify the cam pin next time I have the intake cam out to make the pin itself narrower, allowing the trailing edge to occur sooner while the leading edge remains in teh current position. I believe the brocks pin is wider than the stock pin, making teh cam trigger signal wider (longer duration) than tthe stock pin.

I also want to put a timing light on to see what the actual timing values are as compared to the values as programmed  the ecu.

 

I did notice a significant difference in the idle performance from neutral to in-gear, with gear engaged being very much better and neutral causing a very noticable hunt to the idle. I ahve not yet looked into this yet, it is likely due to teh very different timing maps or something.

I have the ID1000 injectors starting and idling just fine (aside from the neutral issue noted above). I wodul seriously recommend these injectors to anyone with an extreme performance application. In fact, if I am part of anything over 350 hp in the future, I am going to recommend using them as they are quite controllable, even when using the stock ecu without injector paramater variables. They also have a 750cc version which in theory should be a bit better for idle, etc (althugh I see no problem using the big injectors for a race bike, and they would likely be fine for a streetbike as well)

 

I think the higher range boost sensor will need to be implemented shortly as I will be putting together a "spare" motor with ARP 1/2" studs soon...

 

 



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Sportbikeryder,

 I have followed your build and have really enjoyed watching you go from start to success! One piece of info I could not find was: Did you keep the Gen1 instrument dash? I was wondering if the Gen1 dash will still read as normal or if you have to get a Gen2 dash or 07+Gixxer1000 dash.

 I have a K9 ecu, plugs, and a harness that I am going to "part out".

 

I have designed a circuit to use the old Gen1 inductive cam sensor and make it look like a hall effect sensor like the Gen2. I have some testing to do first, and I am tring to get all the parts together.

Great job on your conversion,

Mark

 

 



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Hi Busa Quick got the jump on me with that question .

I was in the prosess of attaching my 08 harness & noticed the dissimilarity in plugs. did you swap out the wires with the old plug or go for the newer clocks ?

Also were there any other wiring anomalies you found which I am yet to discover if so how did you get round them.


Busa Quick said
"I have designed a circuit to use the old Gen1 inductive cam sensor and make it look like a hall effect sensor like the Gen2. I have some testing to do first, and I am tring to get all the parts together."

As A welder I am totaly lost regarding what sensors should look like & electrics in general so I went the easy way and got a gen 2 rocker cover with offset pin which should work ?? I hope.

I'm still trying to find a way to fit the gen2 throttle bodies to the gen1 head but it will come.

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Qoute

  I went the easy way and got a gen 2 rocker cover with offset pin which should work ?? I hope.

 

 That is what sportbikeryder has done so, yes that should work.

 

When I have proven my cam sensor circuit will work I will create a thread about it.

Mark

 

 



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Have my busa running with the bitsa gix loom and 08 ecu, brought a gen 2 cam cover and sensor to be sure i was not creating more probs than i was fixing .
Its running the gen 1 gauges , i used a gen 1 gauge loom and just color matched the wires, there were a couple that didn't match, gray on the gen 1 gauge end, and white and brown on the ecu end , have not even made the time yet to check what they are, been too busy but for my racebike it has the essentials, tach, water,n, and oil, fi is on but thats probably stv ,

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Maj750 wrote:

Have my busa running with the bitsa gix loom and 08 ecu, brought a gen 2 cam cover and sensor to be sure i was not creating more probs than i was fixing .
Its running the gen 1 gauges , i used a gen 1 gauge loom and just color matched the wires, there were a couple that didn't match, gray on the gen 1 gauge end, and white and brown on the ecu end , have not even made the time yet to check what they are, been too busy but for my racebike it has the essentials, tach, water,n, and oil, fi is on but thats probably stv ,


Thank you, that is the info I was looking for. If I am able to get those results I will be happy!
Mark

 



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No guages at all on my bike. As Maj750 noted, he has them working smile.gif

I "think" everything is working ok on my bike. That said, there may be a timing issue that I will likely try to verify with a timing light and some additional marks on the starter clutch. The timing may not be triggering accurately and causing different timing events than those programmed. If someone switched the crank rotor and cover from a GEN2, there shouldn't be any issues, but since I modified a GEN1 rotor, I am not certain that the timing is the same.

Still need to make another header, then I will be back to the dyno.

John



-- Edited by sportbikeryder on Sunday 8th of May 2011 06:19:46 PM

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Maj750 wrote
"Its running the gen 1 gauges , i used a gen 1 gauge loom and just color matched the wires, there were a couple that didn't match, gray on the gen 1 gauge end, and white and brown on the ecu end , have not even made the time yet to check what they are".

Thanks Maj750 good info.


Has anyone got both the gen1 & 2 wiring scematics to make a comparison before I charge ahead and start cutting wires.

Hmm, can the pins be pushed out of the gen2 plug & inserted in to the gen1 plug ?
Gona give that a go wednesday nite

Cheers Al.

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