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Post Info TOPIC: Woolich Racing Log Boxes


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RE: Woolich Racing Log Boxes


The speed sensor really won't tell you if the wheel is spinning (well, I guess it tells you it is spinning, just not excessively.... ) In dragracing, the wheel speed is essentially measuring the output speed of the transmission, which can be compared to the engine rpm to see how the clutch is working or if it is slipping.

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ok good point, what we need is a high speed GPS data feed ;)



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thats why we need a wheel sensor system integrated, time for log box 2 :)

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jkwool wrote:

ok good point, what we need is a high speed GPS data feed ;)


 A few Land speed guys use thise. Most dagracing sanctions don;t allow it though.

 

I have not done it, but if I step it up next year, I will likely log both wheel speeds and a separate engine RPM channel (directly off the crank or clutch basket) just to see what the relationships really are. This will also allow comparison to the RPM signals from the ECU or tach signal, which I always find to be pretty noisy.

 

I had quite a bit of conversation with a guy who recently set a record on a streetbike last weekend...lets jsut say I may need to keep reading the ECU manuals to get a better handle on some advanced programming.



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Hagarr wrote:
jkwool wrote:

I did a write up on exactly this a while ago http://www.suzukib-king.org/t6552-innovate-motorsports-lc-1-install

Cheers

-Justin.


 Excellent thanks Justin.

I haven't had an opportunity to use the data logger yet as I have changed exhausts to a Yoshi system S-22R and the LC-1 I haven't had a chance to get my head around the installation of it, plus I haven't been able to get my Nitrous system sorted  as been too busy at work!

Finally got around to fitting the LC-1 and although I haven't tested yet the lights are flashing and on as per the manual so must be OK.

 

Yoshi I have fitted is not S-22R but a S55 which was for a Busa, easy to fit ( will post picks later)

just waiting on my Schnitz racing NOS plate and its all go.

 

Finally been up and running now for a couple of weeks and have logged 14 events successfully.

 

still a massive flat spot around 4,500 - 5 but way smoother down low.

Still to test the Nitrous although tested with lines not connected and all Ok so just a matter of getting some time and place to test.

I've been discussing with some guys who have actually used and fitted Nitrous, I haven't this is my first attempt, and they seem anxious about only having a TPS activation and not a button to be able to control!

 

Any comments from current or past users?


-- Edited by Hagarr on Tuesday 14th of August 2012 10:01:12 AM

 

 


 



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Using nitrous off the TPS is not unusual, at least not for small shots (40-60hp). Since the ECU has a built in controller, any size shot woudl be suitable for use with just the TPS activation.

If you feel a need to have a separate button to activate, you can set up the ECU to activate on RPM/TPS/button, and then select the Drive Mode Select upper or lower for activation. In this case, you will have to be above the RPM threshold, and above 95% TPS, and press the drive mode select switch to activate the nitrous.

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Yeah thanks I respect your comments.

The main reason I ask, as I have never actually used Nitrous on bike as I mentioned previous, was if you are hard on it in second and front wheel launches too high and I need to pedal it assuming you button off a bit to gain some control and throttle position falls below 85% open then you hop back on it won't you be tending to Pogo down the track?

I guess the sooner I test and run I will find these things out for myself but just questioning you guys who have had some experience!

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You will likely find that it is better to keep the throttle pinned and shift your way to front end control. Even with a progressive nitrous map, at low power levels you will likely be better off with stabbing the shifter. Either way, if you lift the throttle, it will surely be more than the small amount required to turn off the nitrous anyway and will also reduce power.

It is easy enough to use teh drive mode select button as well, just a check box away. I would use one drive mode channel for the shift kill, and the other for the nitrous. If you find you don;t want/need the button, you can always just change the setting in the ECU.

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rec. my zt-3 and wide band sensor today have a stock gen2 busa , what do I need to do to set it up and wire it.

bike has only r77 full pipe and bmc race filter



-- Edited by wayne on Sunday 7th of October 2012 02:59:32 PM



-- Edited by wayne on Monday 8th of October 2012 09:46:13 PM

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sportbikeryder wrote:

You will likely find that it is better to keep the throttle pinned and shift your way to front end control. Even with a progressive nitrous map, at low power levels you will likely be better off with stabbing the shifter. Either way, if you lift the throttle, it will surely be more than the small amount required to turn off the nitrous anyway and will also reduce power.

It is easy enough to use teh drive mode select button as well, just a check box away. I would use one drive mode channel for the shift kill, and the other for the nitrous. If you find you don;t want/need the button, you can always just change the setting in the ECU.


Apologies, this is probably getting way off the original topic of Justins Logbox so this is the last questions in this section, I promise!

Yeah I get your drift!

Probably OK changing Mode select button on a Busa which if I remember is on the right hand switch block but I am B-King with Busa program so would be almost impossible to use mode button as it is on tank.

I reckon as you suggest to use shifter to control wheel height.

I have seen elsewhere in this forum but can't recall where but how does Nitrous handle fuel & Ign cut on shift change?



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you could put another switch in like the pmr bar mount and run wires to the mode switch , the mode switch connecting plug is easily found at eastern beaver

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Maj750 wrote:

you could put another switch in like the pmr bar mount and run wires to the mode switch , the mode switch connecting plug is easily found at eastern beaver


 OK thats an idea, thanks Greg.

I have left overs from the Holley NOS kit I bought which has an activation button so I could wire that up if necessary.

Eastern Beaver is that an Eastern States electrical store? as I don't recall the name, we have EIW & MM's and of course Jaycar.



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Bit further than that ;)
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/Sealed/SM-MT/sm-mt.html

I probably have the connector you need and will be putting an order in this week for other stuff if i don't

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sportbikeryder wrote:
jkwool wrote:

ok good point, what we need is a high speed GPS data feed ;)


 A few Land speed guys use thise. Most dagracing sanctions don;t allow it though.

 

I have not done it, but if I step it up next year, I will likely log both wheel speeds and a separate engine RPM channel (directly off the crank or clutch basket) just to see what the relationships really are. This will also allow comparison to the RPM signals from the ECU or tach signal, which I always find to be pretty noisy.

 

I had quite a bit of conversation with a guy who recently set a record on a streetbike last weekend...lets jsut say I may need to keep reading the ECU manuals to get a better handle on some advanced programming.


 Really if you turn the CVS file from the log you could setup excell to calculate speed and you can see wheelslip if you look at the logs cronogically.



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Home Built 06 Gsx-r 750 w/ Disco Potato .60 A/r 6.5lbs Pump gas 100% stock motor 211.54 rwhp...... going for 275 on E85 with ECU editor

Oh make it 237rwhp and 97lbs on E-85 100% stock motor 8lbs of boost. Thanks WIN Racing



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Maj750 wrote:

Bit further than that ;)
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/Sealed/SM-MT/sm-mt.html

I probably have the connector you need and will be putting an order in this week for other stuff if i don't


 OK let me know when you receive and I'll forward you some cash!

 

Thanks.



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have my zt3 all hooked up and set to data log,all lights on so I think it is working ,now if we are shotting fo an afr around 13.2 ,on the data log screen do you have to change the target afr from 12.8 to 13.2. first time trying this want to make sure that I am doing this right so I can make 2 maps one for street and one for track


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ANYONE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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ebersole


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Hi Wayne

Yes if the target you are looking to tune to is 13.2 click on the Target AFR radio button and update the cells to 13.2. you can save this target AFR map and this will be the defualt the next time you open up the software. When you autotune the software will make adjustments to bring you AFR to 13.2 . be sure to update the 0-5v settings for AFR in the Data Logging Screen for zeitronix I use 0v= 9.6 an 5v = 19.5 (the 5v AFR is sligly less than suggested by zeitronix as there is a small voltage loss between the zt3 and the ecu).

Hope this helps

Cheers

-Justin.



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cool have all that set up, how do I change the cells on the target afr map


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also I set mine at 0=9.6 and 5=21.
that is what it said on the sheet


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I guess what I am asking is how do I change the cells and should I change the voltage settings

 



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wayne wrote:

cool have all that set up, how do I change the cells on the target afr map


Open the Engine Data Viewer screen

Click the "Target AFR" radio button

put the curson in a cell you would like to change and type in the new value

I find it easiest to change say a block of 3*3 cells to the new target, then select all cells by clicking in the top left cell and hold the mouse down and drag down to the bottom right of the modified cells

press ctrl + c to copy the modified cells

then move the mouse to the next location where you would like to past the copied cells and click ctrl + v to paste, continue doing this until all the cells you want to change are updated.

When you have the target afr map as you want it click the "Save Target AFR" button to save the Target AFR map to you pc, next time you load ecueditor it will open this TAFR



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wayne wrote:

I guess what I am asking is how do I change the cells and should I change the voltage settings

 


 Best advice for setting the voltage is to compare the AFR you are getting in the engine data logging screen with what you are getting on either a guage plugged into your wideband controller or the zeitronix software, do a side by side comparison if possible and adjust the voltage until they match with the engine running. It can be a little difficult as the numbers jump around a bit but you will get them consistently at or very near the same value.



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cool thanks,I will try it out this morning



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also when I try to open the data log screen on the woolich software it does not work still using ecu edt

 



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Yes it has not been released yet in Woolich Racing Tuned software, soon... it will have some cool new stuff as well ;)



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cool changed it over to 13.2 but on a stock bike with 4-1 and bmc filter is this the best setting

 



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also should I chang iap and tps maps to 13.2

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There is no universal "best setting". The best setting is the one that makes the bike perform the way you want it to perform.

The software is just another tool to use when tuning. It is very likely that under different conditions and different applications, the fueling and timing requirements will vary quite a bit. (Crusing on the highway, canyon carving, dragracing, dyno queen, etc).

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understand that but I am looking for a place to start in ecu edi the tps map starts at 12.8 and the iap map starts at 14.6 should i change these



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To be honest i have been quite conservative with the default Target AFR map in ecueditor. this is for obvious reasons in that i have an obligation as the developer to provide a "safe" baseline that wont get users into trouble. The TPS Target AFR map I personally tune to is 13.4 in all cells except the 100% TPS column which I set to 13.3.

The default Target IAP map will serve you well, the most benefits you will derive from autotune and the IAP map is the smoothing and removing of the deficiences built into the stock maps to meet emmisions requirements etc.

The above is just my thoughts, and the cool thing is if you have differing opionions you are free to experiment and test your ideas ;)



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I was going to set up a pc in the garage and set the afr to match the controler then run with the data logger and pc program and see what happens. I will need to make 2 maps, since i take the bike to the drag strip once in a while and run without the can on it, so I will see this weekend what I come up with

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ok matched the data logger to the windband at 19.6 =5v , at idle it reads 16.4 is that about right

 



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wayne wrote:

ok matched the data logger to the windband at 19.6 =5v , at idle it reads 16.4 is that about right

 


 best advice is to check against what either a digital gauge is reading from the wideband controller or the zeitronix software connected to the wideband controller.



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I did down load the software for the zt3 and tried to match it as close as I could, when the bike was on the stand at idle it read 16.4 afr on the lap top with ecu edt and the same on my pc with there soft ware, like you said it did bounce around a little

 



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do I have to change anything in there software

 



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No you should not have to change anything in their software, it is a digital (serial) connection. so you should be good to go then.

Cheers

-Justin.



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cool leaving to the track in about an hour let you know how it goes, was just wondering is 16.4 afr ok when sitting there,it did drop way down when I gave it gas

should be a good day 85 here in florida

 



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At idle, provided the bike is running ok, its ok, but i generally bring it down closer to the target AFR as it makes the throttle response smoother down low. I would suggest doing some runs to see what the AFR is in the both the IAP and TPS map and make adjustments from there.



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cool I will. have a good day and I will keep you up dated, have a bud johhny turbo,will be there to check it has his own shop and races pro street bikes,he wants to try it out

 

 



-- Edited by wayne on Sunday 21st of October 2012 11:39:54 AM

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ok got some great runs , 7 runs logging,after auto tunning and the maps are still off some,best run 9.7 at 145mph ,when i pull up the logs from the dta logger there are 13 and 1 that says raw, does this one have to be on there and do do I have to convert these files before I can auto tune them, after I auto tune If I want to change anything i do it on the standerd map screens iap and tps not in the data logging area correct



-- Edited by wayne on Tuesday 23rd of October 2012 10:29:04 AM



-- Edited by wayne on Tuesday 23rd of October 2012 10:30:47 AM

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ebersole


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I guess what I am asking,since I am new tio data logging is first you get some logs , then you down load them with auto tune ,then you have to correct them on the tps and iap maps,if this is correct does how do you add or take away fuel. anyone

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you autotune them in the datalogging area or you make manual changes in the editor tps and iap tables based on your logs
i save the logs from the interface to a named folder for that day, as the logs have no definite timestamp its easy to get lost
also you can load several logs at once in the logging section, just be sure of your logging parameters that you don't try and tune with info from a cold a/f sensor and any extreme numbers in the table are understood
ie lean on decelleration ot a lean spike from a rich missfire

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but the autotune is not 100% correct right,what is the best way to tell if it is right and what do the colors mean


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ebersole


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i guess what I am trying to get to ,is I have the wide band,data logger all working have file it has recorded, autotuned and the bike does not feel much diffrent


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ebersole


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Bikes don;t always feel different with small changes. It may have been pretty close to start with, in which case you wouldn't feel any difference.

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i WILL HAVE TO START PLAYING WITH IT MAKING 2 MAPS 1 STREET ANSD 1 1/4 MILE


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ebersole


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do you adjust maps in the data log area?


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after riding it a few times abd logging about 50miles load the bin files and look on the date log screen and it is lean about 15.to15.2 in most areas below 5500rpms not sure if I am doing this right ANYONE?


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ebersole


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wayne wrote:

after riding it a few times abd logging about 50miles load the bin files and look on the date log screen and it is lean about 15.to15.2 in most areas below 5500rpms not sure if I am doing this right ANYONE?


 Yeah I'm the same, not much changing to the way the bike performs prior to or after flashing.

I have gone back to basics and looking for a mechanical problem, perhaps my Schnitz manifold is not sealing correctly!



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