System shifts under no load properly but not under load. It had worked properly for a couple years.
Further investigation showed the engine is not killing even with it programmed to max kill time in ecueditor.
Gear position indicator is working properly.
No fault codes showing on dash.
Air pressure set at 140 PSI (confirmed with two gauges).
No air leaks.
Attempts to fix:
Have replaced harness, solenoid, air line, cylinder, air line and regulator. Nothing is leaking.
Reflashed many times.
No visible problems with harness or connections to bike harness.
What is best way to diagnose the lack of any kill time? Is there anything I should be able to see when I have laptop hooked to ECU to test the input? The motor does not stutter at all. Could the mode switch affect the kill circuit?
Thanks for any help!
Cycle-tek air shifter system (shifter, harness, regulator, CO2 bottle)
Pair valve removed but has resistors from Greg Smith and also turned off with ecueditor
Flashing interface from Boostbysmith installed.
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Yes, that is exactly the problem. When I hook up without air, the engine does not kill at all even when I have it maxed out in the ecueditor. I replaced the harness just in case that was the issue without any luck. Pin outs with extra wires still look fine. I was hoping there was a way to debug with information from within ECUEDITOR. The GPS works fine, so I am really struggling to understand what the problem really is.
To Check the harness, turn the ignition on, and ground the wire then measure what the GPS signal wire voltage drops to.
As a santity check, create a new bin file in ecueditor, enable shifter, leave the default settings and see if it will kill when you ground the wire.
I was checking the kill by keeping the air off while running the bike above 2,000 RPM in second gear and then hitting the horn button.
The kill time was maxed out at 120 and there was no audible engine stutter when I hit the button. Also, I could not see the RPM drop on the tach or on the ECUEDITOR tach.
On a good note, I was able to change the shift type from resistor to mode, and I was able to get the engine to stutter using the mode switch.
Next up, I will check the GPS drop in voltage when the horn button is hit (with it back in resistor mode). I believe it will be easier to try some lower resistors to get it working again instead of messing with mode. I am going to put nitrous on next, and I think I need the mode buttons for that. I just don't have garage time for about another week.
Thanks for the help so far!